• Zanzibar birds – what to expect?
• Hotel with a garden by the beach – a great birdwatching spot
• Jozani National Park – a VIP birding excursion
• Stone Town and the spice plantation
• Practical info – birding trip to Zanzibar
• Zanzibar birds – observation list
• Zanzibar up close – cultural shock included in the ticket price
• Summary – is it worth going to Zanzibar for the birds?

Zanzibar birds – what to expect on Unguja Island?

Zanzibar is an archipelago off the eastern coast of Africa, forming part of Tanzania. The island of Unguja, which I visited with my wife, is relatively small, but its habitat diversity is astonishing – tropical forest, mangroves, farmland, coastline and coral reefs create a mosaic that offers a birdwatcher a fantastic opportunity to observe species and add new exotic ones to their life list.

To properly prepare for the trip to Tanzania, I purchased the field guide Birds of East Africa from the Princeton Field Guides series. According to my calculations and verification in the book, I expected to find around 94 species on Zanzibar, including several endemics found nowhere else in the world. A trip to Zanzibar is not optimal in terms of the sheer number of species you can observe – the mainland part of the country would be far better for that. However, this time we were primarily looking for comfort and beach relaxation, with birdwatching being just a pleasant bonus. Even so, Unguja Island, on whose eastern coast we were to spend 8 days, offered plenty of interesting and exotic birds.

Hotel with a garden by the beach – a great birdwatching spot

We spent our entire stay at the Dongwe Club Vacanze on the southeastern coast of Unguja Island. When choosing the hotel, I was guided by a few things – comfort and high standards, beach access, and surroundings that would allow birdwatching. The choice proved to be a bullseye: the hotel offers its guests accommodation in small bungalows scattered around an enormous and beautifully maintained exotic garden, where I spent hours tracking birds and learning their songs. The immediate surroundings also offered many excellent observation spots. The beach, to which the hotel had direct access along with a very long wooden jetty, provided opportunities to observe many waterbird species. This is because the eastern shore of the island is very susceptible to tidal ebb, during which the sea floor is exposed over a very large area – a perfect spot for waders, herons and terns. The surrounding overgrown scrubland was also full of birds (unfortunately, more litter than birds in many places).

Species seen around the hotel and beach area included: Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Purple-banded Sunbird, African Golden-Weaver, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, African Pied Wagtail, Common Bulbul, Striped Kingfisher, African Pipit, Red-eyed Dove, White-browed Coucal, White-fronted Plover, Black Heron, Water Thick-knee, Greater Sand-Plover, Ring-necked Dove, Lesser Striped Swallow, Lilac-breasted Roller, Broad-billed Roller.

What a wonderful garden – I’ll never forget it. Literally 3 metres from the path that tourists walked along every day, several pairs of African Golden-Weavers had built their intricate nests. On almost every shrub decorated with colourful flowers, sunbirds of five different species were hopping around. The number of moving dots amid the lush vegetation, accompanied by unfamiliar songs and calls, was overwhelming in the first few days. But by around day 3, I had learned to distinguish the sounds and was tuning in to those I hadn’t yet identified. And this was only the beginning…

Another big advantage of this choice was the short distance to Chwaka Bay, where a whole host of species I wanted to see had been recorded on the eBird app. Another location I had planned to visit was Jozani National Park – the only national park on Zanzibar.

Jozani National Park – a VIP birding excursion

The park is famous above all for its endemic monkey – the Kirk’s red colobus (Piliocolobus kirkii).

For a bird lover it is an equally fascinating place – here you can encounter the Fischer’s Turaco, which I so desperately wanted to see. The dense mist forest transitions into mangroves over Chwaka Bay, creating a mosaic of habitats that attracts both forest and wetland species. This is one of those places where, already at dawn, accompanied by hoots and flute-like trills, you can feel that you’re standing at the very centre of an evolutionary island at the crossroads of East Africa’s migration routes. Entry to the park is only possible with a guide, and as it happens, the park has organised a special VIP bird tour option. That’s exactly what we chose, and it was a great decision – our guide Milo was an experienced observer who took us first of all to nearby farmland. There we encountered a whole host of new birds for me, and there was also one very interesting snake lurking in a dense bush.

Species seen at Jozani National Park and surroundings: Common Waxbill, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Crowned Hornbill, Eastern Nicator, Dark-backed Weaver, Green-backed Woodpecker, Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul, African Palm Swift, African Fish Eagle.

Unfortunately, that day was mega hot even early in the morning. The heat was so oppressive that after 3 hours of walking I suffered heat stroke. At first I thought a moment’s rest and extra hydration would sort things out, but I was wrong. Things started getting serious when a terrible headache, dizziness and nausea set in. Despite enormous determination and a desperate wish to see the Fischer’s Turaco, I had to cut the excursion short. That day ended for me around noon, as the effects of overheating and dehydration persisted until nightfall. It was a valuable lesson in humility, which gave me a lot to think about – mainly about the fact that I would have to go back there one day.

Chwaka Bay

A great idea for us was also a bicycle trip to Chwaka Bay. Admittedly, the bikes hired from the hotel were, by European standards, more suited to the scrap heap than tourist hire, but that doesn’t change the fact that accompanied by creaks and rattles they managed to get us from the hotel to the bay and back. At the bay itself I was in for a surprise – I had expected a good number of gulls, terns, waders and kingfishers in the mangrove thickets. Of that whole set, only the waders met my expectations; I didn’t see a single gull, tern or kingfisher there.

The crab-plovers, Black Herons, Grey Herons, Intermediate Egrets and Great Egrets were there in good numbers though. And among the sizeable flocks of Kentish Plovers, one could pick out gems such as White-fronted Plover, Lesser Sand Plover, Desert Plover and Siberian Sand Plover. And on the way back I managed to spot the icing on the cake – a Sooty Falcon resting on a palm tree. I would recommend this spot to any birder.

Stone Town and the spice plantation

We chose to travel to Zanzibar with Itaka – it was our first real trip to Africa (previously we had only been to Fuerteventura, which is geographically part of Africa, but culturally and politically is Europe), so we preferred not to organise everything ourselves. One of the undoubted advantages of travelling with a tour operator is the interesting optional excursions, and we took advantage of this by joining a trip to the spice plantation and Stone Town.

We particularly enjoyed the spice plantation tour – I can finally say that I showed my wife where pepper grows! Literally! Local guides took us around a large garden full of plants that in Poland we know mainly from cookbooks. We had the opportunity to see how local pepper, vanilla, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg and turmeric grow and taste (and that’s still only part of the list). The tour ended with a palm-tree climbing demonstration, shopping and a delicious lunch made from local ingredients.

Then came the time to explore UNESCO-listed Stone Town, and I have to admit it’s an attraction for people with strong nerves who are well prepared for a cultural shock. Information about the slave trade and the conditions in which it took place is just the beginning; then you have to come face-to-face with the overpowering stench of the local market, where meat and fish are sold. And that’s still just a side note to the ubiquitous beggars and souvenir sellers who sometimes even use blackmail to try to sell you something.

From a birding perspective, the day didn’t yield many observations – at the spice plantation I saw the same birds that had been hanging around the hotel, and in the city the only new species to make the list was a Sooty Gull spotted in the harbour.

Practical info – birding trip to Zanzibar and Tanzania

Before you pack your binoculars, sort out the formalities and required documents. The basic document is a passport valid for at least 6 months from the date of departure from Tanzania – this applies to every traveller, including children. You’ll also need a visa; a tourist visa costs around 50 dollars and can be obtained in two ways: online before departure or on arrival at the airport. Since 2024, all visitors to Zanzibar must also purchase travel insurance exclusively from the Zanzibar Insurance Corporation (ZIC) – standard foreign policies are not accepted, and lack of this document can result in being refused entry.

Regarding health: if you’re travelling from Poland, no vaccinations are required, but vaccinations against Hepatitis A and B and typhoid are recommended. Zanzibar is in the endemic zone for malaria, dengue and several other mosquito-borne diseases for which there are no effective vaccines – anti-malaria prophylaxis and a good repellent are an absolute must, especially for anyone planning to be out in the field at dawn and dusk.

As for clothing and equipment worth taking for birdwatching in the tropics, opt for breathable, long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt in muted colours (green, beige, brown), which simultaneously protect against the sun, insects and scratchy vegetation. For optics, 8×42 binoculars are a good compromise between field of view and image brightness in shaded forest; it’s worth securing them in a waterproof case, as humidity fluctuations and tropical dust can damage your optics. Sturdy ankle boots with a waterproof membrane are advisable – paths in the mangroves and forest can be muddy year-round, and solid-soled footwear is also very useful on the rocky sections of the beach.

You can also find advice online to bring a spotting scope, and it’s true that a scope is always handy for birdwatching – but I didn’t bring one and didn’t regret it at all. During the entire trip there was only one moment when I wished I had a scope with me; most observations can be made at distances perfectly suited to binoculars. In my view, a spotting scope plus tripod is a lot of bulk and weight that you can comfortably leave out of your luggage.

Zanzibar birds – observation list from the trip

New species on my life list:

• Common Waxbill
• Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird
• African Fish Eagle
• Common Bulbul
• Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul
• Crab-plover
• Black Heron
• Green-backed Woodpecker
• Lesser Striped Swallow
• African Palm Swift
• Lilac-breasted Roller
• Broad-billed Roller
• White-browed Coucal
• Water Thick-knee
• Striped Kingfisher
• Sooty Gull
• African Pied Wagtail
• Purple-banded Sunbird
• Mouse-coloured Sunbird
• Scarlet-chested Sunbird
• Collared Sunbird
• Eastern Nicator
• White-fronted Plover
• Lesser Sand Plover
• Desert Plover
• Siberian Sand Plover
• Sooty Falcon
• Crowned Hornbill
• Red-eyed Dove
• Ring-necked Dove
• African Pipit
• Emerald-spotted Wood Dove
• Green-headed Sunbird
• Zanzibar Red Bishop (Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird)
• Black-bellied Weaver
• Dark-backed Weaver
• African Golden-Weaver
• Malachite Sunbird

Other species observed:
House Sparrow, Common Sandpiper, Red-backed Shrike, Spotted Flycatcher, African Green Pigeon, Great Egret, Intermediate Egret, Indian House Crow, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Grey Heron, Greater Crested Tern, Eurasian Curlew, Whimbrel, Ruddy Turnstone, Kentish Plover, Eastern Cattle Egret, Little Ringed Plover.

The observation list could have been considerably longer, but we didn’t manage to complete all the programme points I had originally planned. When I was planning the Zanzibar trip I had hoped to also visit Pemba Island, where you can find several endemics – unfortunately, due to inherent laziness and the heat stroke that effectively put me off such adventures, we abandoned that plan.

Zanzibar up close – cultural shock included in the ticket price

Zanzibar is not just a turquoise lagoon from a travel agency brochure – it’s an island where in the course of one walk you can go from a luxury resort through a market full of the scents of cloves and fried fish to the narrow streets of Stone Town, where laundry dries between buildings from the era of the sultanate. Poverty is visible to the naked eye and there’s no point in romanticising it – but equally visible is the dignity with which people live here, and the selfless warmth they show to visitors from a place where everything is richer and easier. On the beaches you’ll inevitably encounter beach boys – local sellers, guides and organisers of everything – who’ll approach you with a smile and an offer of a trip, a massage or a fresh coconut. Some can be persistent, but there’s no aggression; they’re simply people seeking a livelihood in a place where tourism is one of the few available sources of income.

It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that handing out money, sweets or trinkets to children – though it reflexively seems like a kind gesture – in the longer term harms the local community: it entrenches begging, discourages children from attending school and means that every white tourist becomes a walking cash machine. If you want to support the locals, do so consciously – buy something at the market, use the services of a local guide, eat at a small restaurant away from the hotel zone.

Once you’re in Zanzibar, three Swahili phrases will quickly become second nature to you – they’ll come in very handy and will bring a smile to the face of every local you meet:
Jambo – Hello!
Pole pole – Slowly, slowly – their answer to every delay
and the world-famous – Hakuna matata – no problem, everything’s fine

Summary – is it worth going to Zanzibar for the birds?

In short – absolutely yes! Even though searching for birds was not our primary holiday plan this time and we devoted only two of our eight days entirely to birdwatching, I managed to observe 38 new species on my life list. And that’s a result that on a more bird-focused trip to Zanzibar could easily be doubled.

Zanzibar has the rare advantage of working on many levels simultaneously – birdwatching can be combined there without any problem with regular sightseeing and relaxation. Exotic birds are literally everywhere, sometimes within arm’s reach. The Jozani Forest, the mangroves of Chwaka Bay, the open coastlines at low tide, the bush-covered scrubland – each of these places offers a completely different avifauna. So if you’re wondering whether it’s worth combining birdwatching with an all-inclusive holiday, the answer is: absolutely yes, and without any sacrifice for the rest of your group.

We chose an all-inclusive package with Itaka, and that too was a great idea – the first real contact with Africa was somewhat shocking but very exciting. That’s exactly what we needed, and the tour operator took care of all our comforts. If you’re planning birdwatching on Zanzibar as a holiday add-on – I’d strongly recommend this option. I think that after this experience, I’ll have the courage to organise my next African adventure on my own.

• Sri Lanka – an island for birdwatchers
• Sri Lanka trip itinerary
  • Birdwatching on the south coast
  • Kottawa Forest Reserve
  • Udawalawe National Park
  • Owls near Tissamaharama
  • Sinharaja – the inaccessible jungle
  • Sigiriya and Lion Rock
  • West coast relaxation
• Practical tips for a Sri Lanka birdwatching trip
• Sri Lanka birds trip – summary

Sri Lanka – an island for birdwatchers

My wife and I make it a tradition to set aside money each year for a shorter or longer international trip. At the end of 2024, we were planning a birdwatching trip to Oman, but when that fell through, we started looking for an equally attractive alternative. We had saved up a solid budget and wanted something exotic — Asia and Sri Lanka quickly became our top choice. Ceylon seemed to offer everything we look for on our travels: rich culture, warm climate, stunning landscapes, sandy beaches and incredible wildlife.

I started my research and discovered that Sri Lanka was not only within our financial reach, but also offered a remarkable diversity of endemic bird species. I ordered the flights, and shortly after — a field guide to the birds of Ceylon. Then I sat down with eBird and mapped out the island in search of locations that would give us both exceptional birding opportunities and a chance to experience Sri Lanka’s unique culture.

Sri Lanka trip itinerary

Despite not being a large country, Sri Lanka is incredibly diverse. The island is divided into wet and dry zones, which shift depending on the season. Our trip was planned for January, when the best weather is found in the western and southern parts of the island. During my research, I also discovered that the birds I was most hoping to find are highly localised, meaning we would need to travel quite a bit to reach our goals. After much deliberation, we worked out a plan that — while not perfect — gave us the opportunity to visit many remarkable places and encounter a huge variety of exotic birds and wildlife.

• Landing in Colombo
• Southward route with sightseeing along the way
• 5 nights in Rekawa (near the town of Tangalla)
• 1 night in the Sinharaja jungle
• 2 nights in the town of Sigiriya
• 3 nights in a fishing village on the west coast near Chilaw
• Departure from Colombo to Warsaw

The plan was good, but not flawless. When I was booking, it seemed like we would be close to all the key spots. In reality, transport in Sri Lanka takes far longer than expected — even without relying on public transit. As a result, we have plenty of reasons to return one day!

Birdwatching on the south coast – Rekawa

Before reaching our first base on the southern coast, our driver took us to a few interesting spots. At my request, we first stopped at the Bellanvila Attidiya Sanctuary, where we walked along the Nedimala Canal. That first birdwatching session in Sri Lanka was electrifying. Almost every bird was new to me. As it turned out, all but one bird at that location reappeared many times during our trip. The exception was a Yellow Bittern hunting in the reedbeds — spotted only there.

We also had our first encounter with a massive Water Monitor lizard. We would see these reptiles many more times on the trip, but never again so close, and never one so large.

Our first overnight base was perfectly positioned between the sea, the wetlands, and the Rekawa lagoon. The beach in front of our hotel was completely unsuitable for swimming due to powerful waves — but that turned out to be a major advantage. Each January night, female sea turtles ride those waves ashore to lay their eggs. All you need is a torch and a nighttime walk to encounter giant turtles on the beach. We were lucky enough to see one on our second night.

The surroundings of our first hotel turned out to be a birding paradise. The wet meadows and tree-lined areas produced outstanding species: Indian Paradise Flycatcher, Red-wattled Lapwing, Green Bee-eater, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Sri Lanka Junglefowl, Black-headed Ibis, Indian Roller, Crimson-fronted Barbet, Sri Lanka Swallow, and many more. The trip total from this area alone reached well over 50 new species for my life list.

The highlight of my time at Rekawa was spotting a dolphin from the beach — most likely an Indian Ocean Bottlenose Dolphin, according to a local expert. I only managed to photograph its dorsal fin, but the sighting was unforgettable.

Kottawa Forest Reserve and Fort Galle

During our time on the southern coast, we also visited the historic city of Galle and its famous fort. On the way, we stopped at the Kottawa Nature Reserve, where our guide Rohan introduced us to local plant and animal species. Birds were scarce inside the dense forest — we spotted only a few flowerpeckers and a Black-crested Bulbul. However, we found some fascinating reptiles, including the spectacular Lyriocephalus scutatus and Otocryptis wiegmanni.

A word of warning: if you visit Kottawa, prepare for an invasion of land leeches. Unlike European leeches, these crawl on the ground, climb your boots and bite relentlessly. Removing them is quite unpleasant.

Walking through the old fort in Galle also yielded a few excellent sightings: Glossy Swiftlets, Red-vented Bulbuls, Sri Lanka Swallows, a Nepal House Martin, and a small group of resting terns — including Lesser Crested and Black-naped Terns.

Udawalawe National Park – Sri Lanka birds on safari

A safari in Udawalawe National Park is an absolute must for any birdwatcher visiting Ceylon. We set out before dawn, though unfortunately we made a costly mistake by not clearly agreeing on the duration of the jeep hire upfront. After just three hours, our driver left the park despite my protests. Despite being cheated, the morning still delivered an incredible variety of new species, including Indian Peafowl, Gray-headed Fish Eagle, Indian Roller, Indian Courser, Lesser Adjutant, Painted Stork, Greater Flameback, Sri Lanka Junglefowl, and Alexandrine Parakeet.

Beyond the birds, we observed Sri Lankan Elephants, Mugger Crocodiles, Axis Deer, and a Golden Jackal. If you are planning a Sri Lanka birdwatching trip, I strongly recommend dedicating a full day to Udawalawe — and sorting out the jeep terms in advance!

Owls near Tissamaharama – a birding night tour

Before our trip, I found contact details for Sadun, a local birdwatcher based near the town of Tissamaharama. He offered to show us the local owl species — particularly those that can be found roosting during the day: Buffy Fish Owl, Brown Fish Owl, Spot-bellied Eagle Owl, and Indian Scops Owl. After dark, we would also visit a spot known for Barn Owls.

Sadun rode ahead on his scooter, leading our driver through narrow backstreets to locations that no tourist would ever find on their own. We found all four daytime owl species as promised. A lakeside walk afterwards turned up a Ceylon Rufous Babbler — a Ceylon endemic — and a huge colony of Indian Flying Foxes. There were also Mugger Crocodiles, a large roost of Black-crowned Night Herons, a Black Bittern, a Brahminy Kite with a freshly-caught fish, a Black-necked Stork walking through a rice paddy — and just after dusk, two Barn Owls appeared.

Sinharaja – the inaccessible jungle

After the brilliant time on the south coast, we headed towards the Sinharaja jungle. The plan was to arrive early enough for an afternoon walk near our accommodation, then join a guide early the next morning for the national park. Unfortunately, the road to our lodge took around five hours despite covering only a few dozen kilometres — we crawled along narrow, broken mountain tracks. The views were spectacular, but mostly obscured by rain.

Our tiny jungle lodge sat at the edge of the rainforest, and even the downpour could not stop us from spotting a few species from the terrace: Vernal Hanging Parrot (an iconic Sri Lanka bird!), Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Malabar Trogon, Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, and the endemic Yellow-fronted Barbet.

The next morning brought our biggest disappointment of the trip: the rain had only intensified overnight, making a jungle hike unsafe and pointless. We made the difficult decision to skip Sinharaja — meaning the place that was supposed to harbour the most endemic species of Ceylon remains a mystery to me. A very good reason to return.

Sigiriya and Lion Rock – birds at the fortress

We pushed on to Sigiriya in the centre of the island. The weather finally cleared the next morning, giving me a chance for an early walk before my wife woke up. I circled a few rice paddies — where I found only species already on my list — but the forest strip between our guesthouse and the Sigiriya complex turned up several secretive but exciting birds new for my life list.

After breakfast, we headed to Sigiriya Rock itself. The queues at the ticket office were so long that we instead decided to visit the nearby Pidurangala Rock — a lesser-known alternative offering a stunning view of the Lion Rock from above, at a fraction of the price and without the crowds. The view from the top is magnificent: flat jungle stretching to every horizon, and the enormous Sigiriya Rock rising above it all.

The Pidurangala trail also produced great birds, including a Flame-throated Bulbul (a Ceylon endemic), two Sri Lanka Grey Hornbills at the Sigiriya palace ruins, a Brown-capped Babbler, and a Crimson-fronted Barbet. The following morning, near a local lake, I added the Grey-bellied Cuckoo to my list.

West coast relaxation – Chilaw and Anawilundawa

Our final base on Sri Lanka was near the town of Chilaw on the west coast — a beautiful hotel situated between the beach and a large lagoon, run by a charming gentleman who was fascinated by my birdwatching hobby. This was the ideal spot to recharge after an action-packed itinerary.

The nearby Anawilundawa Bird Sanctuary and surrounding rice paddies provided several last-minute additions to my life list: Large Cuckooshrike, Shikra, Black-winged Kite, and Paddyfield Pipit. My total count for the trip reached 104 new species — a result I consider spectacular, and one that would have been even higher had the rain not forced us to miss Sinharaja National Park.

Practical tips for a Sri Lanka birdwatching trip

Organising this trip was the most complex international travel I had ever done independently. Despite a few mistakes, we had a fantastic 10 days in Ceylon. Here are my key practical tips:

• Get a local SIM card immediately upon arrival — data costs in international roaming from a European SIM can be eye-watering. A local SIM is essential for navigation and translation.
• Exchange currency at the airport — we found the best exchange rates at Colombo airport. Bring USD or EUR; PLN won’t be accepted anywhere.
• Hire a car with a driver — self-driving is not cheaper, and Sri Lankan traffic is genuinely dangerous for foreigners. A good driver also acts as a local guide.
• Always confirm travel times — even short routes can take surprisingly long. Plan accordingly.
• Agree all terms in advance — price, duration and scope of any service. Vague agreements will be used against you.
• Watch your belongings around monkeys — both Toque Macaques and Purple-faced Langurs are expert thieves.

• Bring rain gear — Ceylon’s weather changes rapidly and dramatically.
• Use strong sun protection — even on overcast days, the equatorial sun burns fiercely.
• Bring a plug adapter — Sri Lanka uses British-type (Type G) sockets.
• Travel insurance is a must — stray dogs, chaotic traffic, tropical diseases and accidents make comprehensive travel insurance essential.

Sri Lanka birds trip – summary

Ten days in Sri Lanka is undoubtedly too short to track down every interesting species, visit every attraction, or explore every corner of this remarkable island. We skipped a whale-watching trip due to weather, missed three national parks — Yala, Bundala and Wilpattu — and had to abandon our Sinharaja plans due to relentless rain. And yet, despite the imperfections, we came home exhilarated.

104 new birds on my life list. Elephants, crocodiles, sea turtles, giant bats, and monitor lizards. Stunning temples, colourful markets, and incredibly warm people. Ceylon is one of those rare destinations that exceeds all expectations — and leaves you already planning your return.

If you are considering a Sri Lanka trip for birdwatching, stop thinking and start booking. You will not regret it. And if you have any questions about planning your trip, feel free to ask in the comments!

If you enjoy birdwatching in exotic destinations, check out our report from the Fuerteventura – Canary Island birding trip.

• Fuerteventura – Information About the Island
• Nature on the Windy Island
• Fuerteventura – rocky deserts and beautiful coastlines
• Birds on Fuerteventura
• Trip organization
• Complete list of sightings
• Trip summary
• Useful tips

Raport z wyprawy dostępny jest również w języku polskim
Fuerteventura – w poszukiwaniu kanaryjskich ptaków

Fuerteventura – Information About the Island

Fuerteventura is the second-largest island in the Canary Islands archipelago, located in the Atlantic Ocean, just 100 km off the coast of Africa. Administratively, it belongs to Spain and is part of the Canary Islands’ autonomous region. Although geographically part of Africa, the islands are within the European Union, which significantly simplifies trip planning for European tourists.

Its volcanic landscapes, rugged mountains, sandy dunes, and expansive beaches make it particularly attractive to visitors. The island is known for its numerous nature reserves, such as the Parque Natural de Corralejo with its impressive dunes, and the picturesque Jandía Peninsula, where you can encounter rare bird species and extraordinary wilderness.

The history of Fuerteventura dates back to ancient times when it was inhabited by the indigenous Guanche people. In the 15th century, the island was conquered by the Spanish, marking the beginning of its incorporation into the Spanish crown. Today, Fuerteventura is a popular tourist destination, especially for those seeking tranquility, beautiful beaches, and unique conditions for water sports like kitesurfing and windsurfing. Interestingly, Fuerteventura and its marine habitat have been recognized by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve, highlighting its importance for the conservation of biodiversity.

Weather on Fuerteventura

Fuerteventura is characterized by a mild, dry climate typical of the Canary Islands, making it an ideal destination to visit year-round. The island’s temperatures are relatively stable, with slight variations between summer and winter. During the summer months, from June to September, average temperatures range between 26-30°C. However, thanks to the constant, cooling ocean breezes, the heat is more manageable compared to many other regions with a similar climate.

Winters on Fuerteventura are mild, with average temperatures ranging between 18-22°C, making it an excellent escape for those looking to avoid the cold of the European winter. Rain is rare, and when it does occur, it’s mainly between October and March. The island receives low annual rainfall, often below 150 mm, which contributes to its dry, desert-like landscape.

The constant trade winds, known as “trade winds,” are a distinctive weather conditions of Fuerteventura. These winds make the island a paradise for water sports enthusiasts, such as kitesurfing and windsurfing. During the summer, these winds can be quite strong, which may affect the perceived temperature and the comfort of tourists while sunbathing.

The sun shines here most days of the year, with over 300 sunny days annually, making high SPF sunscreen absolutely essential. Additionally, the dry climate results in lower humidity, which can be beneficial for those who struggle with humid conditions. These are ideal conditions for photographers and tourists seeking sunny weather and beautiful beaches.

Nature on the Windy Island

I organized a trip to the Spanish island to escape the dreary March weather and to add a few new species to my life list of observed birds. The warm climate and beautiful sandy beaches were what attracted my wife, while I focused on scanning the skies for exotic birds. However, there was plenty to observe on the ground as well.

Due to the island’s location and its unique, dry climate, Fuerteventura is home to many bird species that have adapted to the harsh environmental conditions. One of the most distinctive birds of Fuerteventura and the main focus of this trip is the Saharan hubara (Chlamydotis undulata), a symbol of the island and a rare and endangered species primarily inhabiting desert and semi-desert areas.

The Canary Islands also host several endemics such as the Fuerteventura Stonechat, the Berthelot’s pipit, the Bolle’s pigeon, the Tenerife blue chaffinch, the Atlantic canary, and the African blue tit. Knowing that the chaffinch, pigeon, and canary are typically found on Tenerife, I hoped to at least find one of these species during my visit.

Fuerteventura – rocky deserts and beautiful coastlines

The landscape of Fuerteventura is both rugged and extraordinarily picturesque, giving the island its unique character. Vast sandy beaches stretching along the coast contrast with the dry, desert plains that dominate the island’s central region. Although Fuerteventura is less mountainous than other islands in the archipelago, it features numerous hills and elevations that add variety to its scenery.

One of the most distinctive features of the landscape is the enormous dunes, particularly around Corralejo in the northeastern part of the island. These massive sandy areas, reminiscent of the Sahara Desert, create a stunning view and are ideal for long walks, enjoying sunrises and sunsets, and observing the unique wildlife.

Volcanoes of Fuerteventura

Fuerteventura, like the other Canary Islands, has a volcanic origin, though the volcanoes on the island have been dormant for millions of years. Nonetheless, their remnants continue to shape the island’s landscape. Volcanic cones, lava fields, and basalt rock formations bear witness to the past geological activity that played a crucial role in shaping Fuerteventura’s terrain.

One of the most well-known volcanic features on the island is Calderón Hondo, located near the town of Lajares. This well-preserved volcanic cone offers stunning views of the surrounding areas and nearby islands, such as Lanzarote. Visitors can climb to its summit to peer into the crater and enjoy panoramic vistas. Naturally, we did that too ?.

Trip organization

Initially, we planned to take the easy route and use one of the many excursions to Fuerteventura offered by travel agencies. However, we decided that we wanted to be more mobile to explore the entire island, so we split our stay between the southern and northern ends of the island. I booked the flights and hotels myself. I’m not sure if the savings compared to package deals from travel agencies were worth the time I spent researching, but splitting the stay between two locations was definitely a good idea.

Esquinzo

We spent the first few days on the island in the small town of Esquinzo in the south. We managed to book a two-story apartment with a terrace overlooking the ocean. Additionally, the beautiful sandy beach on the eastern side of the island was about 200 meters away. This allowed us to enjoy wonderful sunrises, and the wind on this side of the island was not as strong as in other parts.

Moreover, Esquinzo was a great base for exploration. During our stay, we went to watch the sunset at the famous Playa de Cofete, explored the tourist town of Morro Jable, and visited the Oasis Park zoo located near the town of La Lajita.

We spent the second part of our vacation in a much windier part of the island. We traveled from the south to the north, heading to the town of Corralejo. Along the way, we stopped at several interesting places. First, we visited the desert area near La Pared in an unsuccessful search for the cream-colored courser. Next, we visited some fantastic viewpoints offering views of truly Martian landscapes. Our final stop on the route was Ajuy, where we admired the charming cliffs and caves that were supposedly once frequented by pirates. I looked under a few rocks, but unfortunately, I didn’t find any treasure ?.

Corralejo

Corralejo is a small town from which you can see the nearby islands of Lanzarote and the uninhabited Lobos, which is entirely a National Park. Our choice of accommodation was also favourable, we booked a cozy apartment just 30 meters from the town’s central promenade, restaurants, and numerous shops. Additionally, the gentleman managing the apartment turned out to be incredibly helpful, giving us several useful tips and even a substantial discount on a dolphin-watching cruise.

Corralejo also served as our base for exploration. From there, we ventured out to explore the nearby Parque Natural de Corralejo, climbed to the summit of the Calderón Hondo volcano, searched for desert birds in Llanos de Tindaya, and visited the tiny village of Los Molinos, where I received a hint that there are breeding griffon vultures to observe nearby.

Carnival in Corralejo

One of the biggest and most unexpected attractions turned out to be the Carnival in Corralejo. One day, as we were returning from an excursion outside the town, we noticed that most of the roads into the town were blocked. Entering via the only available route, we saw crowds of people in costumes. The center was very crowded, with music, singing, and laughter coming from every direction. CARNIVAL! After a quick shower at the apartment, we joined the lively party that went on late into the night.

Loud, upbeat music, smiling and friendly people, amusing costumes, and pure joy. We got an unexpected, wonderful bonus to what was already a fantastic trip ?. What particularly caught my attention was that by the next morning, after the grand party, there was practically no trace of it. I woke up shortly after dawn the day after the carnival to photograph seabirds, and when I stepped out of the apartment, the cleaning crews were already finishing up.

Dolphin Watching Cruise

With the discount offered by our apartment’s manager, we decided to take a dolphin-watching cruise. In the early morning, we set out with an international group on a large boat into the open ocean. We were lucky, as dolphins appeared very quickly and in large numbers. For a good 1.5 hours, we observed a sizable pod that seemed completely unconcerned with the presence of our boat. Unfortunately, the dolphins were focused on hunting rather than playing, so none of them leaped out of the water.

During the cruise, I of course kept an eye out for seabirds as well, but apart from a few Scopoli’s shearwaters and several gull species that can also be seen from land, I didn’t spot anything particularly interesting. Nonetheless, it was still worth spending those 250 euros for a cruise for two people.

Birds on Fuerteventura

I saw interesting birdlife in almost all the places we visited. The biggest disappointment was the desert Parque Natural de Corralejo. Although the park only has one trail you can follow, it is completely trampled by tourists. This is probably because the trail is almost unmarked, making it very easy to stray from it. Despite my diligent search, I was unable to find the Saharan hubara or the cream-colored courser that I was hoping for.

Visiting the zoo turned out to be a very good idea for birdwatching. The wild birds took full advantage of the water and food provided by the zoo for its animals. I only included in my life list the birds that were not residents of the zoo, so despite observing the marabou stork and the saddle-billed stork, they do not make it onto my list.

Undoubtedly, I was incredibly lucky during this trip. An african blue tit literally visited us during breakfast in Esquinzo, a cream-colored courser miraculously appeared in one of my photos but was blurred like a mirage, and I only managed to find the Saharan hubara six hours before our flight home.

In the end, I added 20 new species to my life list.

Complete list of sightings

Below is the list of bird species observed during the trip. The first 20 are the species I saw for the first time.

1. Red-vented bulbul
2. Scopoli’s shearwater
3. Trumpeter finch
4. Barbary partridge
5. Houbara bustard
6. Hadada ibis
7. African sacred ibis
8. Red-rumped swallow
9. Plain Swift
10. Ruddy shelduck
11. Fuerteventura Stonechat
12. Monk parakeet
13. African blue tit
14. Muscovy duck
15. Sardinian warbler
16. Spectacled warbler
17. Cream-colored courser
18. Berthelot’s pipit
19. African Collared-Dove
20. Spanish sparrow
21. Eurasian collared dove
22. Common ringed plover
23. Kentish plover
24. Eurasian whimbrel
25. Sanderling
26. Common sandpiper
27. Yellow-legged gull
28. Lesser black-backed gull
29. Sandwich tern
30. Black-crowned night heron
31. Little egret
32. Western cattle egret
33. Grey heron
34. Eurasian spoonbill
35. Eurasian hoopoe
36. Egyptian vulture
37. Common kestrel
38. Peregrine falcon
39. Rose-ringed parakeet
40. Great grey shrike
41. Common raven
42. Greater short-toed lark
43. Common linnet
44. Ruddy turnstone
45. Grey plover
46. Barn swallow
47. Western house martin
48. Willow warbler
49. Mediterranean short-toed lark
50. Mallard
51. Black-winged stilt
52. Northern wheatear
53. House sparrow

Trip summary

Basically, every aspect of our trip to Fuerteventura went smoothly. We had no issues with transportation, the car rental turned out to be cheaper than expected, and both accommodations were very comfortable and managed by friendly hosts. We didn’t encounter anything that would dampen our spirits, and as a bonus, we got an unexpected carnival party.

There were no unforeseen expenses, so we could afford some extra spending, and we still wrapped up the trip under our planned budget of 7000 PLN for a week’s stay for two. I sincerely recommend it to anyone who hasn’t been there yet, as we came back with only positive memories.

Useful tips

• UV Protection: Sunscreen and hats or caps are an absolute must. If you’re heading out for birdwatching in the desert, I also recommend bringing lip balm. The strong, hot wind can dry out your lips quickly, causing them to crack and bleed. Don’t ask me how I know.
• Car Rental: It’s best to book with a local company like CICAR. We reserved with another company and ended up paying a bit more.
• Beach Etiquette: Be aware that you’ll encounter many nudists, mostly retirees, on the beaches.
• Souvenirs: Do not take souvenirs without a receipt. Items like shells, sand, and basalt rock fragments are protected, and trying to remove them can result in severe penalties.
• Accommodation: Check on the status of the sewage system when booking your stay, as there are regular issues on the island. Fortunately, we managed to avoid this problem.
• Shopping: Avoid buying souvenirs in Morro Jable as prices there can be up to 20% higher.
• Oasis Park: If you’re planning to visit Oasis Park, allocate a full day for it. The zoo is truly vast.
• Additional Activities: Inquire at your hotel or apartment about discounts for additional attractions. They often have affiliations and can offer reduced prices.
• Language: Fuerteventura surprised us with how widely English is spoken. It was quite different from our experience in Catalonia. A English – Spanish dictionary won’t be necessary.
• Seafood: Make sure to try seafood dishes at one of the restaurants on the Corralejo waterfront. Delicious!
• Grocery Shopping: If your accommodation doesn’t offer full board, shop for groceries at Lidl or Mercadona. Prices are lower there than elsewhere, and Lidl stocks almost the same products as in Poland. Mercadona has a good selection of local products.
• Street Vendors: You’re unlikely to encounter street vendors and hustlers.
• Duty-Free Zone: Fuerteventura, as part of the Canary Islands’ duty-free Special Zone, offers lower taxes on certain products. I bought perfumes there for half the price compared to Poland. You can indulge, but remember to keep within airline baggage limits.

Bibliography and footnotes

1. UNESCO – https://www.unesco.org/en/mab/fuerteventura
2. https://www.spain.info/pl/natura/rezerwat-biosfery-wyspa-mares-fuerteventura/
3. https://teneryfyczas.com/zakupy/

• Birds of Spain – A birdwatching expedition
• Nature of Catalonia and Aragon
  • Girona – city park and old town
  • National Park – Delta del Llobregat
  • Montserrat mountain
  • National Park – Delta de l`Ebre
  • Aragon Steppes – Reserva Ornitológica de El Planerón
  • Congost de Mont-rebei
• Birds of Spain – full observation list
• Birds of Spain – gallery
• Trip plan
  • Transportation
  • Accommodations
  • Costs
  • Notes and advice
• Acknowledgments
• Useful links

Birds of Spain – A birdwatching expedition

It’s slowly becoming our tradition that my wife and I go abroad in the spring. Due to our interests, we rather choose places rich in nature. This year, we initially planned a trip with a certain travel agency to Romania to the Danube Delta. Unfortunately, the trip was cancelled, so we decided to spend the invested money on a trip elsewhere. After a quick reconnaissance of where to go at the end of April and beginning of May, we chose Spain. Specifically, the eastern part of it, as we planned to spend most of the time of our trip in Catalonia, just briefly visiting Aragon in search of steppe birds.

Reviewing the Collins Bird Guide, I quickly counted that the number of new bird species that I potentially have a chance to encounter in the regions we planned to visit reaches several dozen birds. Because we wanted to see as many as possible, we planned a touring trip, during which we would visit several interesting natural sites in 7 days. The birds of Spain are very diverse, so we marked a few interesting locations on Google maps and didn’t set up any rigid trip plan. This turned out to be a perfect choice.

Nature of Catalonia and Aragon

Although migration in that region of Spain is already winding down at the beginning of May, it doesn’t change the fact that the huge diversity of ecosystems guarantees a large diversity of organisms inhabiting them, including numerous birds of Spain. Since our trip was focused on active leisure and exploration in search of as many birds as possible, our tour plan of the east of the country focused on the most nature-rich places. In this regard, the ebird.org portal was unmatched, where you can easily locate places from which birdwatchers report their observations.

Of course, part of our time spent in Spain was also reserved for sightseeing in cities. After all, it would be a sin not to visit Girona, where many scenes of the series Game of Thrones were shot, or the world-famous Barcelona. How it turned out in practice, you will find out soon, below are a few paragraphs about the places we visited. In chronological order.

Girona – city park and old town

Girona is a charming city known primarily for its picturesque old town, whose narrow, cobbled streets tempt you to take walks and discover numerous monuments, such as the impressive cathedral complex from the 11th century. An interesting fact is that many scenes of the popular series “Game of Thrones” were shot in Girona. We spent the first day in Spain right there. After landing at a nearby airport, we picked up a car we had rented in advance, checked in at the accommodation we had reserved through Air Bnb, and went on foot to explore the town.

Our route was not long, after a few minutes’ walk we arrived at a very large park, Park La Devesa, largely covered with tall trees from the plane tree family. Among the trees, we managed to spot rose-ringed parakeets, spotless starlings, a few tits, and a nuthatch. We also heard a green woodpecker, but we couldn’t spot it. The birds of Spain slowly started to fill the list of newly observed species.

The park is bordered on the north by the Ter River, where we quickly noticed several interesting bird and mammal species. The shallow river water forming numerous bends is a very good place for foraging for common sandpipers, mallards, little egrets, Audouin’s gulls and cormorants. We spotted these species almost immediately, and after a few minutes, Carrion crows also flew in.

After visiting the park, we headed to the old town, where I spotted Kestrels patrolling the sky from afar. The charm of the narrow streets and really old architecture quickly convinced us why this city was chosen as the setting for the Game of Thrones series. We even managed to recognize a few characteristic places we had seen in the series. While strolling through the old town, not only monuments caught my attention, I managed to spot a Blue Rock Thrush on one of the roofs of old tenement houses. As it turned out, this was the only opportunity to watch this beautiful bird.

National Park – Delta del Llobregat

After a super comfortable overnight stay, we set out for Barcelona. The plan was simple: to reach the place of our stay, leave the car in the parking lot by the accommodation, and go sightseeing in the famous city. Simple plan, yet it didn’t work out. It turned out that the host of our accommodation did not have the promised parking, and the parking rules in Barcelona for non-residents are one big nightmare. After losing the entire morning and forenoon, we finally gave up on visiting Barcelona. We only saw the famous Sagrada Família cathedral from the car window as we were leaving the city. The backup plan was – Delta del Llobregat, a national park literally located behind the fence of the huge El Prat airport.

We therefore gave up the monuments and attractions of Barcelona in favor of observing wild nature from really very close. Delta del Llobregat Park is an important place for migrating birds, who find shelter and rest here during their journey. The delta is also home to many species of plants and animals, and its marshes and lagoons create a unique natural environment. We had the opportunity to observe many species of birds there. Even though we arrived at this place at the worst possible time for photography, my camera’s shutter did not stop. From the photographic hides scattered throughout the park, I managed to spot several common bird species of Spain, which were new and exotic to me. My life list was growing by another species minute by minute.

Montserrat mountain

Montserrat is a mountain and monastery in Spain, located northwest of Barcelona. It is characterized by a unique landscape of rocky peaks, which resemble teeth or needles in shape. It is also an important pilgrimage site, and the monastery houses a venerated statue of the Black Madonna, attracting believers from around the world. We went to visit the monastic complex and for a hike straight from Barcelona, on the third day of our stay in Spain.

According to the recommendations from all the guides that we had come across, we decided to leave Barcelona, which had given us a hard time the day before, as early as possible. Just after dawn, we headed north to get to the Montserrat massif and the monastery located there before the crowds of other tourists. It was a very good decision, indeed when we arrived at the place, early in the morning, a few buses already welcomed us parked in the parking lot, but the crowds had not yet arrived. We therefore visited the most interesting corners of the monastery and when it started to get really crowded, we embarked on a several-hour, not very demanding trail.

The trip was very pleasant, the route is suitable even for retirees, the path is even and not very steep. Along the route, we found several fantastic viewpoints from which you could even see Barcelona and the Mediterranean Sea, 40 kilometers away as the crow flies. There wasn’t much in terms of natural attractions, but this could be expected since this place is so popular with tourists. In the high mountain bushes, I spotted a robin, chaffinch, winchat, and a Sardinian  warbler (unfortunately, I didn’t manage to capture it in a photo), and several times a peregrine falcon and ravens flew over our heads. I didn’t manage to spot any of the ibexes that are present in this region.

After a very pleasant walk in the mountains, tired but very satisfied, we packed up and drove into the town of Riumar in the Ebro River delta, where we were to spend the next three days.

National Park – Delta de l`Ebre

The Ebro Delta is a vast delta area in Spain, located on the eastern coast in the Catalonia region. It is one of the largest river deltas in Europe, known for its beautiful landscapes, extensive wetlands, lagoons, and sandy dunes. This natural environment is home to numerous species of water birds and fish, and also constitutes an important nature conservation area, attracting bird watchers. The turn of April and May is the time when the surrounding rice fields are flooded with water. These are conditions that a multitude of birds eagerly take advantage of.

Our accommodation for the next three days was in the beautiful and very quiet at this time of year town of Riumar. It was a typical tourist row house with a very nice terrace overlooking a small courtyard with a pool and a view of the sea. As we unpacked our bags, I knew it would be a great base for morning observations of Spanish birds. I was right, nearby areas were rich in diverse bird species. On the protected dunes at the beach, I encountered several species of gulls, terns, flycatchers, starlings and spotless starlings, skylarks, linnets, wagtails, reed buntings, and an long-eared owl at night. On the shallow bay, mallards swam, pink flamingos waded, and groups of sandpipers dashed along the shore.

The town itself was chirping all day, there were a lot of sparrows, unfortunately, I could not spot a Spanish sparrow among them. Also, among the town’s buildings, you could hear several scops owls at night. Two long night walks were not enough to spot them, though.

On the western border of the town, there is also a large wasteland, which is clearly periodically flooded with water, probably salty, as it is a low-lying area very close to the sea. Walking there at dawn, I spotted ringed and common plovers, a Zitting cisticola, an Itowny pipits, winchats, stonechat, a meadow pipit, reed warblers and several redstarts.

And this is just a description of the immediate vicinity of our accommodation! Leaving the town from the eastern side, after a short walk, you can reach Mirador del Garxal where two birdwatching hides have been set up, which focus on the large shallow bay partially overgrown with reeds. From there you can easily spot flamingos, gadwalls, mallards, great, grey, little and purple herons, whiskered  and common terns, and little gulls. Meanwhile, on the meadow behind you, there are hoopoes and magpies. From the reeds, you can hear reed warblers, sedge warblers, reed buntings, Zitting cisticola.

If you’re planning a birdwatching trip to Spain, be sure to visit the Ebro Delta!

Bassa del Bosquet

Bassa del Bosquet is a tiny patch of marshland near the mouth of the Ebro. We spent about two hours there, which were fruitful in terms of new species of birds on my life list.. The western swamphen showed up in the marsh’s reeds, a roller perched on a branch above me, and in the dense bushes, I managed to spot a western orphean warbler. On a nearby rice field, I also spotted my first cattle egret.

Cementiri de Barques

The Boat Cemetery is a very atmospheric place where, by one canal, you’ll find numerous old boats sunk in shallow water, overgrown with algae and mussel shells. There’s an expansive view over a vast shallow bay where Spain’s magnificent birds perch. During a short walk, I spotted a whole host of species there, with some of the more interesting ones being curlews, turnstones, ruffs, grey plovers, and bar-tailed godwits. Of course, ibises and stilts are also very interesting birds, but I’m not mentioning those because they’re everywhere in the Ebro Delta. In bulk quantities.

Playa El Trabucador

El Trabucador is a narrow piece of land forming part of a peninsula. The beach cuts off a very shallow and wide bay from the sea, which forms many puddles and closed pools with seawater. The periodically flooded and exposed sand is a great place for watching wading birds, gulls, and terns. In this place, I managed to read three rings on Audouin’s gulls. I added the collared pratincole to my life list after visiting El Trabucador.

Three days is definitely too short a time to explore the Ebro Delta; I’m convinced that a few more days would surely allow me to significantly extend my list of observations. I’m hoping that I’ll have the opportunity to visit this beautiful place again someday; I still have a few places marked in the delta that I’d like to visit.

Aragon Steppes – Reserva Ornitológica de El Planerón

On Sunday, April 30, I had scheduled a joint excursion for us to the steppes of Aragon with a local birdwatcher. I knew that the steppe birds of Spain, such as larks, sandgrouse, bustards, or rare species of larks and buntings, wouldn’t be easy to find. I decided to seek help from a local bird enthusiast, and it’s quite easy to find contact information for such individuals on birdingpal.org. After exchanging a few messages, I managed to arrange for us to go birdwatching with Arturo, a hobbyist birdwatcher who lives near Zaragoza.

Since we wanted our birdwatching adventure start early, our day began at 3:30 am… To meet up with Arturo, we had to travel 230 kilometers. The journey passed quite quickly and stress-free, the sunrise greeted us just as we descended from the highlands to the flat steppes. There, we were greeted with truly beautiful views and landscapes. We were only half an hour late to meet with our affable guide, who chose the nature reserve El Planerón as our first place to visit.

El Planerón Ornithological Reserve is an area of steppes in Spain, characterized by its unique flora and fauna. It is home to rare species of birds such as the Dupont’s lark, short-toed lark, and both black and white-bellied sandgrouse. This area attracts bird lovers from around the world; we ourselves met a Dutchman trying to find a Dupont’s lark. The reserve is managed and protected by the SEO/BirdLife organization, which conducts scientific and educational research to protect birds and their habitats.

Thanks to Arturo’s experience and knowledge of the terrain and local bird species, he arranged a route for us where I encountered a completely new species to me every moment. In half an hour of observation, I spotted – rock pigeon, Egyptian vulture, short-toed lark, lesser short-toed lark, Calandra lark, white-bellied sandgrouse, red-legged partridge, Mediterranean shrike and the super rare Dupont’s lark! Even the very sharp light and powerful wind blowing in this place virtually non-stop couldn’t spoil this experience.

Pozo de los Chorros, Belchite

After leaving the El Planeron reserve, we made a brief stop at an olive grove. A multitude of small birds were flitting about in the dense branches of olive trees, some of which were hundreds of years old. There, I encountered my first ever Dartford Warbler, which unfortunately wasn’t cooperative for a selfie. Luckily, the new addition to my life list, the woodchat shrike, was much friendlier and allowed me to take a few shots.

Then we headed towards Belchite, a town where you can see the sad remnants of the civil war that took place in Spain between 1936 – 1939. We went southwest of the town, entering small gravel roads leading to fields laid evenly above the Aguasvivas river. There, right after getting out of the car, a western black-eared wheatear perched on a roadside sign. I only took a few shots because I could already hear an excited Arturo calling me to come as quickly as possible. When I followed his voice, I didn’t regret it. I stood at the edge of a slope, covered with small fields gradually descending towards the river flowing below. On the other side of the river, a high and steep rocky cliff dominated, which was the backdrop for a bird spectacle.

In this location, several species rapidly made their way onto my life list – the red-billed chough, rock sparrow, crag martin, griffon vulture, booted eagle, and egyptian vulture. On one of the cliff ledges, we even managed to spot a pair of griffon vultures near their nest. One of them was likely incubating eggs.

As the sun was already quite high, and we did not want to become a meal for the vultures, we took a well-deserved break. We drove a considerable distance to a restaurant recommended by Arturo for a shared meal. After stretching our limbs and filling our stomachs, we were to set off again on the hunt for birds of Spain, but this time in an enlarged group. Arturo’s friend, Esteban, joined us. He was supposed to show us the best local places to spot bustards, little bustards nad sandgrouses. The time of day and year was not optimal for observing these species, but the round of field roads still ended with a 33% success – we managed to spot the black-bellied sandgrouse.

Esteban suggested a trip in search of owls, with the long-eared owl, little owl, and eagle owl on the list! The long-eared owl and little owl were spotted without a problem, however, the eagle owl unfortunately did not appear at its nest located surprisingly close to civilization. We ended a day full of ornithological excitement with the observation of an entire colony of lesser kestrels.

Congost de Mont-rebei

For the last full day spent searching for birds in Spain, we planned a trip to the very edges of the Pyrenees. We wanted to visit the little-known but very picturesque Mont-rebei gorge. The journey itself was filled with views of magnificent landscapes and interesting ornithological observations. Black Kites were literally flying everywhere, and while leaving Aragon, we observed a multitude of bee-eaters, larks, and wheatears. The ride was enjoyable, with sunny weather as throughout the entire trip. After parking the car near the gorge, I spotted an alpine swift and a Bonelli’s warbler, two more species on my lifetime observation list.

The hike through the gorge was also very enjoyable, with breathtaking views. We didn’t do the entire trail, however, because we still had several hundred kilometers of road planned for the day. We wanted to end our tour of Spain as close to Girona as possible, from where we had a return flight booked to Krakow. The Mont-rebei gorge wasn’t teeming with birds, we spotted a few more griffon vultures, chaffinch, nightingales, and several flycatchers.

We concluded the expedition called Birds of Spain with an overnight stay in the city of Tàrrega. On the last day, I got up at dawn to take a walk around the town. Waking up early was a very good idea. Literally a few hours before leaving Spain, I managed to photograph two more species for my lifetime list – a Cetti’s warbler and a Pallid swift.

Below you will find a list of all the bird species in Spain that we saw or heard. The 49 bolded species on the list mark my first encounter with that bird. In summary, during a week spent in Spain, I managed to identify 155 bird species, a result that is more than satisfactory.

You can find my list of lifetime observations here – Birds – documented observations

Birds of Spain – full observation list

1. Common shelduck
2. Northern shoveler
3. Gadwall
4. Mallard
5. Red-crested pochard
6. Greater flamingo
7. Little grebe
8. Great crested grebe
9. Rock dove
10. Feral pigeon
11. Common wood pigeon
12. European turtle dove
13. Eurasian collared dove
14. Common cuckoo
15. Common swift
16. Common moorhen
17. Eurasian Coot
18. Western swamphen
19. Black-winged stilt
20. Grey plover
21. Kentish plover
22. Common ringed plover
23. Little ringed plover
24. Eurasian curlew
25. Bar-tailed godwit
26. Ruddy turnstone
27. Temminck’s stint
28. Sanderling
29. Dunlin
30. Common snipe
31. Common sandpiper
32. Common greenshank
33. Wood sandpiper
34. Common redshank
35. Collared pratincole
36. Slender-billed gull
37. Audouin’s gull
38. Yellow-legged gull
39. Mediterranean gull
40. Little tern
41. Gull-billed tern
42. Caspian tern
43. Whiskered tern
44. Common tern
45. Sandwich tern
46. Great cormorant
47. Little bittern
48. Grey heron
49. Purple heron
50. Great egret
51. Little egret
52. Cattle egret
53. Black-crowned night heron
54. Glossy ibis
55. Eurasian spoonbill
56. Western marsh harrier
57. Eurasian hoopoe
58. Bee-eater
59. Common kestrel
60. Eurasian golden oriole
61. Woodchat shrike
62. Eurasian magpie
63. Remiz
64. Mediterranean short-toed lark
65. Crested lark
66. Zitting cisticola
67. Common reed warbler
68. Great reed warbler
69. Sand martin
70. Barn swallow
71. Common house martin
72. Western Bonelli’s warbler
73. Common chiffchaff
74. Cetti’s warbler
75. Common whitethroat
76. Common starling
77. Spotless starling
78. Blackbird
79. Spotted flycatcher
80. Common nightingale
81. European pied flycatcher
82. Common redstart
83. Whinchat
84. Northern wheatear
85. House sparrow
86. Tree sparrow
87. Western yellow wagtail
88. European greenfinch
89. European goldfinch
90. European serin
91. Greylag goose
92. Common pochard
93. Red-legged partridge
94. Alpine swift
95. Eurasian oystercatcher
96. Northern lapwing
97. European storm petrel
98. Black-tailed godwit
99. White stork
100. Short-toed snake eagle
101. Booted eagle
102. Marsh harrier
103. Montagu’s harrier
104. Black kite
105. Red kite
106. Common buzzard
107. Eurasian scops owl
108. Little owl
109. Long-eared owl
110. European roller
111. Peregrine falcon
112. Iberian grey shrike
113. Eurasian jay
114. Western jackdaw
115. Raven
116. Eurasian blue tit
117. Great tit
118. Greater short-toed lark
119. Calandra lark
120. Eurasian skylark
121. Sedge warbler
122. Savi’s warbler
123. Eurasian blackcap
124. Western Orphean warbler
125. Sardinian warbler
126. European robin
127. Black redstart
128. European stonechat
129. Western black-eared wheatear
130. White wagtail
131. Tawny pipit
132. Common chaffinch
133. Common linnet
134. Corn bunting
135. Pin-tailed sandgrouse
136. Black-bellied sandgrouse
137. Egyptian vulture
138. Eurasian griffon vulture
139. Golden eagle
140. Great spotted woodpecker
141. European green woodpecker
142. Rose-ringed parakeet
143. Red-billed chough
144. Carrion crow
145. Crested tit
146. Dupont’s lark
147. Thekla’s lark
148. Eurasian crag martin
149. Blue rock thrush
150. Rock sparrow
151. Yellowhammer
152. Lesser kestrel
153. Dartford warbler
154. Garden Warbler
155. Song Thrush

Birds of Spain – gallery

Trip plan

We didn’t manage to visit all the places that interested us, but there were definitely too many to see everything in a week. We had to forgo visiting places like the Montseny National Park and the Natural Park of the Volcanic Zone of La Garrotxa. One place we wanted to see but didn’t manage to was the city of Barcelona.

Below I present the plan of our birdwatching trip to Spain:

25.04 Lublin > Krakow > Girona
26.04 Girona > Barcelona > Delta del Llobregat
27.04 Barcelona > Montserrat > Riumar in the Ebro Delta
28.04 Cementiri de Barques > Bassa del Bosquet > Playa El Trabucador
29.04 Riumar surroundings > Playa El Trabucador
30.04 Riumar > Aragon > Reserva Ornitológica de El Planerón > Belchite > Cartuja Baja
01.05 Cartuja Baja > Congost de Mont-rebei > Tàrrega
02.05 Tàrrega > Girona > Krakow > Lublin

Transportation

Our flight from Poland departed from Krakow, and we got there from Lublin in our own car, arriving just in the nick of time. We made it literally a minute before the gates closed. However, we were well prepared for security control, so once we had passed through the gates, we got on the plane without any stress or problems. The flight was short, although somewhat prolonged due to the need to circle the airport in Girona.

Upon arrival, we quickly and easily picked up the car we had pre-booked through some intermediary. I’m not going to advertise any companies we used here. If anyone is interested in the specifics because they’re planning their own trip, feel free to get in touch ?

The car was new, in good working order, and comfortable. We drove it over 1400 kilometers in a week and it didn’t cause us a moment’s worry. Well, maybe apart from the situation in Barcelona, but the problem there was not the car, but the lack of parking spaces.

The car rental rules were fairly straightforward: we picked up the car with a full tank and were to return it with a full tank and undamaged. Fortunately, we didn’t need to make use of the full insurance we had opted for.

Accommodations

Hotels in Spain can be expensive, but the accommodations we found through Airbnb comfortably fit our budget. We specifically chose places that offered parking spaces, so we were very disappointed and stressed about the situation in Barcelona. That’s the only aspect I feel deserves a comment in terms of accommodations. Everywhere else, the lodging conditions were exactly as described in the listings.

The Airbnb hosts were generally friendly, although unfortunately, we were only able to communicate with two of them in English.

Costs

The round-trip flights with priority boarding and additional carry-on baggage for two people cost 1,960 PLN. The car rental, including insurance, amounted to 871 PLN. Accommodations for 7 nights in various locations for two people totaled 1,780 PLN. Travel insurance cost 130 PLN.

Certainly, it would have been possible to organize such a trip at a lower cost, for example by choosing flights with layovers, which could have saved us around 35% of the price. However, we had allocated 168 hours for our vacation and didn’t want to spend 20 of them at airports. That’s why we opted for the more expensive but direct and faster flight.

Similarly, with accommodations, in Spain (especially in Barcelona), hostels with dormitory rooms are popular and available at a slightly lower cost. However, we chose accommodations in private rooms primarily for privacy and the security of our luggage.

It would have been difficult to save on transportation costs in Spain. We chose one of the cheapest rental cars, filled up at the cheapest gas stations. Public transportation would have significantly limited our options and prevented us from visiting as many places, especially the less popular ones among tourists. The only option for optimizing transportation costs would have been to forgo full insurance coverage. However, considering our plans to explore the steppes and venture into the mountains, the probability of an incident not covered by basic insurance was relatively high. Just a small rock falling from the mountain cliffs, of which we passed dozens, could have caused damage to the windshield that would have to be paid out of pocket. For peace of mind, it’s worth paying for full insurance coverage.

Notes and advice

Here is a list of tips we can share from our birdwatching trip in Spain:

1. Never, ever drive in Barcelona!
2. There is a plague of theft in Spain, as warned by locals. Exercise caution, don’t carry all your money and documents in one place, avoid keeping wallets or valuable items in the back pocket of your pants, and never leave any belongings visible in your car. Fortunately, we didn’t encounter any such situations.
3. If you don’t speak Spanish, make sure to have a data package for EU roaming. Google Translator will be useful as few people speak English. The Google Lens feature is also handy for taking pictures of signs or menus and having the text translated.
4. Look for restaurants offering “menú del día” (menu of the day). We paid 21 euros per person in one restaurant and received an appetizer, starter, main course, dessert, still water, sparkling water, and wine.
5. When ordering a dish in a restaurant, it’s worth asking how it is served. You’d be surprised by the sight of the hamburger we received in Riumar…
6. Don’t underestimate the Spanish sun. Even in April, it can quickly cause sunburn.
7. Spaniards rarely use the right turn signal when exiting a roundabout, so be alert.
8. If you’re going in search of wildlife, we highly recommend seeking the assistance of local birdwatchers. Our day with Arturo was definitely one of the most thrilling birding experiences we’ve had.

We returned from our birdwatching trip in Spain with more than just satisfaction. We encountered 155 species of wild birds in just one week, experienced a wide variety of stunning landscapes, met friendly people, immersed ourselves in a different culture, enjoyed beautiful weather, and made delightful culinary discoveries. Though we were tired due to the highly active nature of our vacation, we were extremely pleased with the abundance of things we were able to see, experience, and uncover. Apart from the stressful situation Barcelona put us through, everything else went smoothly and effortlessly.

Acknowledgments

I would like to express my heartfelt thanks to:

Aneta Obroślak for providing invaluable guidance and assistance in organizing our birdwatching trip to Spain. Your advice and insights were instrumental in ensuring a smooth and enjoyable experience. Additionally, I am grateful for your assistance in navigating the parking system in Barcelona. Thank you for your support and contribution to the success of our journey.

Arturo and Esteban, I would like to extend my heartfelt gratitude to both of you for the wonderful birdwatching experience we had together. Your knowledge, enthusiasm, and expertise greatly enriched our trip, and I am truly grateful for the fascinating information and remarkable bird sightings you shared with us. Thanks to your guidance, my life bird list has significantly expanded. Muchas gracias for your invaluable contribution to our journey.

Madlena Warowna – brave wife, thank you for being the best driver in the world <3

Usefull links

Ebird – Explore – a bird observation mapping tool that helped me plan my birdwatching in Spain

Birding Pal – a website where you can find contacts for many local birdwatchers. If you’re looking for a birding guide in the Saragossa area, I highly recommend Arturo – he’s a super friendly guy with extensive knowledge, experience, and excellent English skills. You can find him on http://birdingpal.org/Spain.htm – A. Rubio – photo with a kingfisher.

• Runde – The Bird Island
• Nature on The Bird Island
• A paradise for photographers
• Runde Island – The Bird Island – setting up the trip
  • Transportation
  • The Bird Island Runde – journey plan
  • Accommodation
  • Food and other expenses
• Summary of the trip
• Useful links

Runde – The Bird Island

Runde Island is a small island located on the north-west shore of Norway. It covers a square area of only 6,2 km and there is only one way of getting to it by land – a bridge from another island called Remøya. It is in the Møre og Romsdal region (an equivalent of Polish voivodship). Despite its small size, Runde Island is a very popular place among tourists, gaining more visitors than inhabitants during the holiday season. This isn’t surprising, as the population of the island amounts to only 113 people.  The secret of this piece of rock, measuring up to 300 meters above the sea waves, is the enormous number of birds that choose this island as their home in the breeding season. Hence the name: The Bird Island!

According to the information boards and data found on the web, The Bird Island is inhabited by 500 000 to 700 000 birds every year from April up until August. The most famous are undeniably gigantic breeding colonies of gannets and puffins, these, however, are not the only charms that this Island has in store.

The majority of the Island’s surface is a rocky hill forming a vast tableland covered with peat bogs. From the west side the hill ends with steep cliffs – a perfect shelter for bird colonies. Climbing up that hill provides you with breathtaking views that are difficult to compare to anything else. Before the trip, I’ve read a few articles comparing this place to New Zealand, and now I know what they were talking about! Walking on the cliffs, you can see a beautiful scenery of far-away mountains covered with snow, and closer – sea waves crushing down on the rocky slopes. A huge open space, morose, but nevertheless beautiful rocks, broad green meadows, numerous waterfalls, dead spruces covered with moss and weeds, rough waves of the sea. All of this scenery makes you feel like a character from Lord of The Rings – there were even trolls!

Nature of The Bird Island

The Bird Island Runde is approximately 1200 km away from Lublin. Needless to say, I expected to encounter a lot of northern bird species. Additionally, very small population of the Island and a few different biotopes caused me to believe that there will be many opportunities for viewing birds. However, the environment that I was met with exceeded my expectations greatly! Even while still being on the Ålesund airport I managed to make an fantastic observation! During taxiing, on the meadow right behind the airport fence, I saw a beautiful white tailed eagle take off. It turned out later that there were many more occasions, on which I could closely observe species that are either rare in Poland, or not present there at all. 

During the 4 days on the island I tried to maximize my chances of encountering wild animals. I tried to make the most out of daytime, since in May it begins at 4 a.m. and ends at 11 p.m on the latitude of Runde Island. Actual time of sunrise and sunset was a bit different, but the sky was bright long before sunrise, and long after sunset. Although The Bird Island is small, the circumstances given by long days, variety of wildlife and the anticipation of exploring the unknown equated to 100 km worth of walking. This in turn enabled me to examine 60 bird species, 15 of which were completely new to me!

1. Common shelduck
2. Black guillemot
3. Murre
4. Lesser black-backed gull
5. Eurasian whimbrel
6. European shag
7. Northern gannet
8. Pink-footed goose
9. Common eider
10. Ring ouzel
11. Black grouse
12. Purple sandpiper
13. Razorbill
14. Great skua
15. Atlantic puffin
16. Greylag goose
17. Greater white-fronted goose
18. Mallard
19. Eurasian teal
20. Tufted duck
21. Red-breasted merganser
22. Eurasian collared dove
23. Eurasian oystercatcher
24. Eurasian curlew
25. Common sandpiper
26. Common redshank
27. Great black-backed gull
28. Little gull
29. Black-headed gull
30. Common gull
31. European herring gull
32. Great cormorant
33. Grey heron
34. White-tailed eagle
35. Eurasian magpie
36. Hooded crow
37. Raven
38. Great tit
39. Coal tit
40. Eurasian blue tit
41. Eurasian skylark
42. Barn swallow
43. Willow warbler
44. Eurasian wren
45. Common starling
46. Song thrush
47. Common blackbird
48. European robin
49. Northern wheatear
50. Whinchat
51. Dunnock
52. House sparrow
53. Eurasian tree sparrow
54. White wagtail
55. Meadow pipit
56. European rock pipit
57. Tree pipit
58. European greenfinch
59. Twite
60. Common linnet

In addition to that, I managed to take pictures of 2 new mammal species. All I had to do is wake up at dawn and go along the road leading to south-eastern shore of the island – exactly where the marina is. In the early mornings of May this is a place of a low tide, which uncovers all of the shellfish hiding among the coastal rocks and cliffs. Ebb tide creates puddles of water, trapping the fish in the process. A little bit away from the shore, the flat sea rocks emerge, capturing sunrays for hours. It all turned out to be the perfect conditions for otters and ringed seals.  

A paradise for photographers

The landscapes and the wildlife offered by The Bird Island is a paradise for photographers. I believe that all photography fanciers will find something interesting there. Runde Island is a fantastic place to learn and practice professional photography. Long sunrises and sunsets mean longer periods of good lighting, whereas the amount of interesting photo models and their low timidity mean easily-captured shots of fascinating wildlife.

It doesn’t matter if you are specialized in landscape photography, wildlife photography, macro photography, or – like me – you are only an amateur in the learning process, Runde Island provides you with amazing conditions to cultivate your photographing hobby. I know for a fact that I am not the first photographer and wildlife fan, who decided to visit this island and share my experiences with my readers.

That’s why I would like to invite you to watch two videos about Runde Island made by Jan from the Foto Zwiad channel, which also helped me immensely in planning and organizing the trip. More about that in the next chapter – in the meantime check out Jan’s videos (don’t forget to leave a like and subscribe to his channel!). 

Runde Island – The Bird Island – setting up the trip

I came up with the idea of visiting the island while I was watching Jan’s videos. First off, I checked Google Maps to see how far away Runde is from the nearest airport in Norway. I found out that it would take around 2,5 hours (ferry waiting time included) to get from Ålesund airport to Runde Island.  Next, I entered my trip destination in the discount airfare app and when I saw that there is a direct flight from Gdańsk to Ålesund, I immediately felt the excitement of impending adventure!

Transportation

During trip planning, my first concern were means of transportation while in Norway. We didn’t really have any other choice than to rent a car or use public transport. That choice is limited depending not only on the costs, but also on the date of the trip! Runde is a small island, populated by very few people – that is why public transport on the weekends operates only on Saturday (but not all year round), while there is no course on Sunday. Due to the fact that up until the last moments, we were not sure which mean of transportation we will choose, we decided to plan our trip from Thursday to Monday, so that we had no problems with public transport, both on the day of arrival and departure.

After analyzing the costs of renting a car in Norway, we decided to use public transport to get from the airport to the island. At first we thought that renting a car would be better for us, but all of the conditions, such as costs, documents, formalities and the requirement of having a high-limit credit card, have successfully discouraged us from realizing that idea. Organizing travel from the airport to the island and back seemed like a nightmare at first. The websites of Norwegian local transport providers are often not available in English and are slightly hard to read. I wouldn’t be able to proceed with my plan if it wasn’t for Jan!

If you are reading this, once again – huge thanks!

The Bird Island Runde – a plan of the trip:

1. Lublin > Gdańsk – car
2. Gdańsk > Ålesund airport Vigra – flight
3. Vigra Airport > Ålesund – Flybussen bus
4. Ålesund > Hareid – ferry
5. Hareid > Nerøykrysset – bus course 330
6. Nerøykrysset > Runde – bus course 331

Seems complicated? Nothing of the sort. Setting up the trip with public transport was as hard as buying the bus ticket earlier and installing the FRAM app (link to the resources will be in the Useful Links section). FRAM is a carrier company, which covers the travelling means of the last three points on the list. What is more, you can buy one ticket for the whole trip from point 3 to 6 in the app. (Link to the Ålesund > Runde route is at the end of the article).

The FRAM app is partly translated into English, so you can get by pretty easily. When it comes to payment methods, it accepts cards with automatic currency conversion, so you have to make sure that you have that option available without additional commission charge.

One of the biggest doubts you can have while travelling by the bus in a foreign country, is when exactly to get off to reach your destination.  Fortunately there are two solutions to that. First of all, most bus drivers that we came across on our trip spoke English, so you can easily ask for help. Another option is to track your real time position in the navigation app. Google Maps is an optimal solution.

Transportation costs (both ways) looked somewhat like this:

• A car drive to Gdańsk and back + parking fee – around 130 zł per person
• flights – no additional luggage pricing, depending on the booking time – between 159 to 189 zł per person
• a drive from airport to Ålesund and back – 210 NOK, approx. 95 zł per person
• public transportation tickets in the FRAM app – 466 NOK, approx. 210 zł per person

As a whole, transportation cost Lublin <> Runde amounted to 610 zł per person

Accommodation

We chose Goksøyr Camping as our accommodation centre and I must say, it was a very pleasant place – it’s run by local married couple with a great sense of humour. The biggest cabin on the camp accommodated up to 4 people, but we went there as a group of 5. Initially, we thought that one of us will have to settle for a tent, but we knew that there would be a problem with taking the tent with us on a plane. Sharp tent pegs are one of the high risk items, so it wouldn’t pass the security check.

The solution to this problem turned out to be in favour of our budget! As one of us would have to take an inflatable mattress to the tent anyway, we asked the owners of the camping if we could set up that mattress on the cabin’s floor. They agreed to that proposition, so we ended up saving not only 200 NOK per night (tent placement cost), but also saving our luggage space.

The cabins were not exactly huge, but we didn’t expect any luxury anyway. 4 bunk beds, a big table, 4 chairs, 2 armchairs, a closet, a cabinet full of kitchen utensils, electric stove with 2 burners, a small fridge and 2 sinks. There was enough space and equipment for 5 people to conveniently settle in.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Toilets and showers are located in a nearby building. There is no bedding in the cabins, so sleeping bags, towels and toiletries are a must have.

Accommodation: 490 NOK – that is the price for a day in a 4-people cabin (in our case for 5 people). Our trip was 5 days long (4 nights), so after dividing the costs between us 5, the total cost per person amounted to:

490 x 4 / 5 = 392 NOK

Which is  177 zł per person for accommodation during the whole trip!

Food and other expenses

Runde Island makes you feel as though you were on the edge of the world, meaning that there was limited access to shops, restaurants and any tourist amenities. Our objective, however, was not to look for such places, but to travel as inexpensively as possible. As for food supplies, we solved that concern almost right away. After coming to Ålesund from the airport, we found a local market and did all the shopping. We fixed our group’s menu for the trip, then each of us added something personal, and we were all set.

Me and my wife paid 510 NOK, that is 230 zł, for our food on that trip.

A few tips:

• If you are going to Runde Island with a group of people, buy one package of needed toiletries for all people to use after you land in Norway. Fluid luggage restrictions at the airport make it hard to pack accordingly – it is easier and cheaper to buy some products on the spot.
• If you plan to drink alcohol or smoke cigarettes, buy it on the duty-free zone at the airport.
• There is a small kiosk on the camping grounds with mostly canned food with long expiration date, so you won’t find any milk or pastries there.
• You can buy souvenirs and Runde Island symbols in the kiosk as well.
• Norway is a part of EU’s roaming zone, so any EU data services should still be available while you’re there. You should still look it up on your service provider’s website, just to be sure.  

Summary of the trip

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to complete all of the objectives I had on this trip. Although the number of new species that I was able to observe was higher than I expected, I did not find the black-legged kittiwake, the sighting of which I thought was a given in northern Norway. It turned out that these birds are losing their fight for food, and their colony has either completely dispersed or dramatically reduced on the island. Anyway, even after spending hours on the shore, I was not able to spot a single specimen of the black-legged kittiwake.  

Additionally, since our trip was planned out of tourist season, we were not able to take the ferry cruise around the Island. The ferries were not in the right technical condition yet. That cruise lets you observe breeding colonies of many bird species right from the deck, and really up-close. Who knows, maybe if we were able to take the ferry, I would come back home with a black-legged kittiwake on my sightings list.

If after reading this article you had a thought cross your mind that a trip to the Bird Island is an interesting idea, well, I can pat myself on the back for doing a good job. On the other hand, if you feel a little bit uneasy about the logistics and organization of such holiday –  feel free to contact me and ask any questions. I will try and help you set up your own adventure with birds in Norway as much as I can.

Useful links:

• Flybussen – airport <> Ålesund drive https://www.flybussen.no/en
• Public transport on the FRAM app Ålesund > Hareid > Nerøykrysset > Runde – LINK
• Goksøyr Camping
• YouTube Channel – Foto Zwiad

• What is KULING?
• Mewia Łacha Reserve
• How to get there?
• Camp routine and crew member duties
• Charadriiformes birds
• List of observed species
• Why should you go to KULING?
• Gallery – KULING 2022

What is KULING?

Kuling, or the Water Bird Research Group KULING, had its beginnings as early as 1983, where it started as an informal entity of the Science Club Section of Biologists at the University of Gdańsk. In 1996, it became an association. With the blessing of Professor Stefan Strawiński, a group of then-students began a project to count water birds in the Bay of Gdańsk. This project continues to this day and is the longest ongoing study of this kind in Europe.

From the very beginning, the Water Bird Research Group KULING has been operating in cooperation with the Department of Ecology and Vertebrate Zoology at the University of Gdańsk. Research involving the counting of sea birds and monitoring the pollution of the Bay of Gdańsk was expanded to include an annual ornithological camp, where mainly wader birds are banded, but not exclusively.

The KULING Association is also involved in active conservation projects, an example of which is the protection of nesting birds in the “Mewia Łacha” reserve. The association also contributes to building environmental awareness and education. However, this is still only a fraction of what KULING does. For more information about the association’s activities, please visit their website – kuling.org.pl.

Mewia Łacha Reserve

The KULING bird ringing camp has been operating for quite some time at the mouth of the Vistula River, within the Mewia Łacha nature reserve on the river’s western bank. This location is exceptional because it houses the breeding territories of many species of terns, gulls, and sandpipers. It also serves as a foraging and resting site during migration for filter-beaked and wader birds. KULING’s activities in this area aim not only to conduct scientific research involving bird counting and ringing, but also actively protect a part of the reserve that is closed off to tourists.

Despite part of the reserve being closed, it still remains an excellent place for birdwatching. From the hiking trails and observation towers, a wide variety of intriguing bird species can be spotted. However, based on conversations with tourists met there, it seems that it’s the seals gathering in the area that attract the most attention.

How to get there?

So far, traveling to the sea has been quite expensive and tiring for me, but after my experiences traveling to the camps of Akcja Bałtycka, I found a better way to get from Lublin to Gdańsk. Unsurprisingly, flying turned out to be the most convenient mode of transportation. However, you might be surprised to learn that this has so far been my least expensive trip to the Polish sea.

A direct flight from Lublin to Gdańsk and back took four times less time and cost half as much as a train journey to Hel for Akcja Bałtycka in the spring of 2021. You can read my account of that journey here – Akcja Bałtycka – 5 days in Hel – expedition report.

I am aware that flying is not very eco-friendly, but hey, this plane would have flown anyway, even without me on board ?. Getting from Gdańsk airport to the camp at the Vistula outlet was also straightforward, as the Tricity area is well connected. A two-hour journey on a city bus, with one change in the city center, was all it took to get there. Well, almost there – the last few kilometers to reach the reserve have to be covered on foot.

Camp routine and crew member duties

In terms of camp routine, KULING was not much different from other ornithological camps I’ve had the opportunity to attend. Maintaining cleanliness of the camp and its surroundings, necessary maintenance work, preparing meals together, cleaning up afterward, replenishing supplies, and shopping trips are the basic duties of a crew member during their stay. However, this is of course not everything – as a volunteer at the camp, one must be prepared to carry out the instructions of the camp leader, whose task is to conduct research and ensure the safety of the animals and crew members. Naturally, personal initiative aimed at improving the operation of the camp is always very welcome.

Crew member duties arising from the research conducted by KULING include carrying out a patrol every two hours to check whether birds have not been caught in the “wacki” (a slang name for tunnel traps for birds, used at the camp). Courteously, yet assertively, asking unaware tourists who have entered the closed area of the reserve to leave, recording data in documentation, and cleaning up trash thrown out by the sea. Although I took on this last task voluntarily ?

Some of the duties required getting up really early, but the views, like the ones below, fully compensated for these minor inconveniences.

Charadriiformes birds

What attracted me the most to KULING, of course, was the opportunity to observe birds up close, which I had previously only seen from afar and very rarely. The species of birds I encountered during my stay at the camp were already familiar to me, so I didn’t add to my lifetime list this time, but it was an opportunity to gain knowledge about many species of sandpipers and terns, which are common there.

Taking advantage of this opportunity, I managed to take a ton of photos, which will serve me for future blog posts and will be used by KULING for documenting their research. Unfortunately, the time I chose to stay at the camp was not optimal, as not all the sandpiper birds had started their migrations, which is why I did not encounter any extraordinary rarities. Nevertheless, it was a very educational and exciting adventure for me, and I also feel that as a crew member experienced in camp routine, I was a useful asset for the camp leader and the rest of the crew. In short, both sides benefited from this collaboration ?

Interestingly, during my stay at the camp, a momentous event took place ? KULING ringed the jubilee 100,000th sandpiper bird in its history. The honoree was a dunlin, who received our jewelry with the number JT84038 on July 28th after 2 p.m.

List of observed species

During my 7-day stay, I observed 67 bird species in the reserve and its immediate surroundings, which is not a particularly impressive achievement. However, the observation list includes species that I very rarely see, and one of them I saw in Poland for the first time. Below is the complete list of species that I observed in the Mewia Łacha reserve:

1. Grey wagtail
2. Common chaffinch
3. Yellowhammer
4. Common reed bunting
5. Common scoter
6. Eurasian collared dove
7. Spotted redshank
8. Sparrowhawk
9. Greylag goose
10. Mute swan
11. Common shelduck
12. Mallard
13. Eurasian teal
14. Common goldeneye
15. Common merganser
16. Common pheasant
17. Great crested grebe
18. Feral pigeon
19. Common wood pigeon
20. Common swift
21. Oystercatcher
22. Grey plover
23. Ringed plover
24. Little ringed plover
25. Eurasian whimbrel
26. Eurasian curlew
27. Bar-tailed godwit
28. Black-tailed godwit
29. Turnstone
30. Red knot
31. Broad-billed sandpiper
32. Curlew sandpiper
33. Temminck’s stint
34. Little stint
35. Sanderling
36. Dunlin
37. Common sandpiper
38. Green sandpiper
39. Common greenshank
40. Wood sandpiper
41. Common redshank
42. Black-headed gul
43. Little gull
44. Common gull
45. European herring gull
46. Great black-backed gull
47. Little tern
48. Sandwich tern
49. Black tern
50. Common tern
51. Cormorant
52. Grey heron
53. Great spotted woodpecker
54. Red-backed shrike
55. Jay
56. Magpie
57. Raven
58. Great tit
59. Sand martin
60. Barn swallow
61. Common house martin
62. Common chiffchaff
63. Starling
64. Blackbird
65. Yellow wagtail
66. Common whitethroat
67. Eurasian nuthatch

Why should you go to KULING?

The questions where the answer is given straight away always amuse me. However, the question in the title really makes sense because it doesn’t even consider the issue – is it worth it? Staying at the KULING camp was an incredible adventure for me, during which I learned a lot, met really interesting and friendly people. I spent time in a great friendly atmosphere on the hot Baltic beach, took lots of cool photos, enjoyed healthy exercise, and at the same time, I could be of use to someone who takes scientific research and nature conservation seriously.

Staying at the camp was also a great opportunity to read bird rings, of course, the vast majority of them were the rings we installed ourselves, but I also came across a few older individuals. In the end, I managed to read 19 markers on 4 bird species – ringed plover, common tern, dunlin (of course :P), and crested tern.

What made a huge plus for me was also the proof that such research and active protection really make sense. I had the opportunity to observe how tourists intervene themselves when other tourists, oblivious to the prohibitions, entered the reserve. It was a very comforting sight because it is proof that responsibility and awareness of the need to protect nature are growing in society.

If you want to take part in the KULING camp, you can apply by contacting the following address – kulingoboz@gmail.com – I highly recommend it. A summer adventure with birds on a beautiful beach is really a great idea for a vacation ?

Gallery – KULING 2022

• Ornithological camp – Operation Baltic – Vistula Spit
• How does an ornithological camp operate?
• Krynica Morska – the bird El Dorado
• Personal list extended – what I manged to see at the Baltic Sea
• Why is it worth going to an ornithological camp?
• Can’t go, but want to help? No worries.

Ornithological camp – Operation Baltic – Vistula Spit

As a matter of fact, while I was returning from the ornithological camp in Hel in the spring, I already knew that this would not be my last adventure with bird ringing and the participants of Operation Baltic. I was prompted to make plans for the future by a very friendly atmosphere, lots of interesting people and birds, combined with even more opportunities to learn something new and have exciting encounters with wildlife. At that time, I did not realize that I would have the chance to go to an ornithological camp so soon.

My stories and photos from the spring trip made my wife jealous, so just a few months after returning from Operation Baltic I was on my way again. This time by car instead of train, and not alone Because the ornithological camp in Hel is closed during the autumn ringing, we went to the Vistula Spit, to Krynica Morska.

The road to the camp passed quite quickly and without any major events, although our old vehicle made us a little scared right after we left Lublin. In the end, we managed to successfully arrive at the camp and once we get to know the team on the first evening, we went for a romantic walk by the sea. Our tasks would begin on the next day.

How does an ornithological camp operate?

The ornithological camp on the Vistula Spit operates in the same way as the one on Hel. All camp participants are required to work together under the supervision of the manager, and their duties include:

• net inspections – every hour under normal conditions, every half an hour during rain, and every two hours at night
• ensuring that the camp and its surroundings are clean
• preparing firewood
• replenishing water from a local resident
• recording ringing measurements
• shopping trips
• other camp-related tasks
• obeying the manager

The division of duties is established between the participants, so everyone can choose something they are good at. As you can imagine, there are times when everyone has something to do, especially during bird raids. On the other hand, moments of blissful boredom are not rare and can be used in an interesting way. I usually spent them with the camera in my hand.

Operation Baltic organizes its ornithological camp in tents set up in the forest for several weeks. But I would not say that the conditions there are harsh. A toilet changed every few days, thick and comfortable mattresses, a permanent roof, the ability to take a warm shower, a separate insulated place for preparing and eating meals… these are the comforts I miss when going into the woods with a backpack.

Remember, however, that the camp is in the forest, so we are guests there. So you should not be surprised by the presence of forest inhabitants, especially certain eight-legged creatures that like to hide under the tent flysheet

Krynica Morska – the bird El Dorado

The location of the Operation Baltic camp near Krynica Morska is quite a treat for a birdwatcher from the south of Poland. I tried to spend all my free time looking for birds that I can only dream of in the Lublin region. Even on our way to the sea, I looked at the observations reported there by ornitho.pl to analyse my chances of meeting species that I had not seen yet. And there is no shortage of interesting species reported in the vicinity of Krynica Morska in September. So I dreamed of all the seedlings, dunlins, birds of prey, gulls, sparrows and some real rarities I could spot.

Unfortunately, this time I did not manage to meet a spectacular specimen like a red-flanked bluetail, which I was lucky enough to photograph in Hel. However, the great diversity offered by this place should be appreciated. When staying in the ornithological camp on the Vistula Spit, a bird lover has access to a large number of environments where they can observe various species of birds.

The ornithological camp is set up in the forest at the Vistula Lagoon, covered at this location by a very wide patch of reeds. Therefore, it is a perfect place to observe many species typical of this environment, such as reed warblers, sedge warblers, great reed warblers, common reed buntings, western marsh harriers, common snipes, bearded reedlings and others.

The forest surrounding the camp offers another range of interesting species. tits, woodpeckers, flycatchers, redstarts, wagtails, robins, common treecreepers and jays. This entire forest crowd that can be met every day also features the birds resting in the forest while returning from their breeding sites.

Unfortunately, this time I did not manage to meet a spectacular specimen like a red-flanked bluetail, which I was lucky enough to photograph in Hel. However, the great diversity offered by this place should be appreciated. When staying in the ornithological camp on the Vistula Spit, a bird lover has access to a large number of environments where they can observe various species of birds.

The ornithological camp is set up in the forest at the Vistula Lagoon, covered at this location by a very wide patch of reeds. Therefore, it is a perfect place to observe many species typical of this environment, such as reed warblers, sedge warblers, great reed warblers, common reed buntings, western marsh harriers, common snipes, bearded reedlings and others.

The forest surrounding the camp offers another range of interesting species. Tits, woodpeckers, flycatchers, redstarts, wagtails, robins, common treecreepers and jays. This entire forest crowd that can be met every day also features the birds resting in the forest while returning from their breeding sites.

Personal list extended – what I manged to see at the Baltic Sea

I began 2021 with 172 species on my list of birds photographed in Poland. My goal for this year is to reach 200 species, and it seemed to me that it would be difficult as I already have quite a lot of them on the list. This goal would probably be hard to achieve if it were not for two trips to Operation Baltic, where I could spot a few birds that do not appear around Lublin. During the spring ornithological camp in Hel, I was able to see and photograph as many as 9 new species (unfortunately I still have no photos of Eurasian woodcock, even though I saw it almost every day at that time).

When I left for the autumn event, I had already achieved my goal of 200 species, but I still wanted to find something new. It turned out that staying at the ringing camp almost guarantees a lot of new observations, because I returned from my autumn trip also with 9 new species of birds I have never photographed before. In this way, I managed to add to my list the herring gull, a species very common in Pomerania.

The common, but hidden and difficult-to-identify warbler, as well as rare bluethroat and collared flycatcher were caught in the nets. I missed the chance to photo the 10th species: when a red-breasted flycatcher got into the net, I was hunting for dunlins with my camera.

On the beach itself, I came across species like Caspian tern, sandwich tern, sanderling, red knot and bar-tailed godwit, and I will remember the meeting with the last one very fondly and for a very long time.

I came home with a great result (compared to my goal for the year) of 213 species photographed in Poland! And by the end of the year there will definitely be some more opportunities to spot something new!

A full gallery of birds I’ve photographed in Poland and abroad can be found here: Birds – documented sightings.

Why is it worth going to an ornithological camp?

There are many reasons to take part in an ornithological camp. First of all, the participants are volunteers, and everybody knows that by helping others you help yourself. This is a really simple and fun way to do something useful, and unless you’re a researcher, you probably don’t have an actual impact on science very often. The ornithological camp gives you such an opportunity, and while your contribution might not be enormous, it is a small piece thanks to which we can get to know our winged friends better and protect them.

Participation in bird ringing is also great if you wish to learn and really get in close contact with birds instead of merely watching them from a distance. Bird ringers are passionate people full of expertise, so they pass on knowledge in an interesting way.

Another huge advantage is other volunteers. While ringing the birds you can meet some very fascinating people, each with interesting reasons for being at the camp. So if you are not afraid of volunteering and a bit of inconvenience, a trip to Operation Baltic and other ringing camps can be your dream adventure.

So if you rarely have an opportunity to admire the Polish sea, encounter interesting birds, meet interesting people and experience exciting adventures, an ornithological camp is a great option for you. See for yourself.

Can’t go, but want to help? No worries.

Do you want to help collect data that allows us to learn about changes in bird migrations, but you can’t go to an ornithological camp? You can give a donation to Operation Baltic, which gathers funds for research and education, or buy something in the special store – https://www.facebook.com/sklepikzrudzikiem.

Either way is good, all you need is a bit of willingness!