• Zanzibar birds – what to expect?
• Hotel with a garden by the beach – a great birdwatching spot
• Jozani National Park – a VIP birding excursion
• Stone Town and the spice plantation
• Practical info – birding trip to Zanzibar
• Zanzibar birds – observation list
• Zanzibar up close – cultural shock included in the ticket price
• Summary – is it worth going to Zanzibar for the birds?

Zanzibar birds – what to expect on Unguja Island?

Zanzibar is an archipelago off the eastern coast of Africa, forming part of Tanzania. The island of Unguja, which I visited with my wife, is relatively small, but its habitat diversity is astonishing – tropical forest, mangroves, farmland, coastline and coral reefs create a mosaic that offers a birdwatcher a fantastic opportunity to observe species and add new exotic ones to their life list.

To properly prepare for the trip to Tanzania, I purchased the field guide Birds of East Africa from the Princeton Field Guides series. According to my calculations and verification in the book, I expected to find around 94 species on Zanzibar, including several endemics found nowhere else in the world. A trip to Zanzibar is not optimal in terms of the sheer number of species you can observe – the mainland part of the country would be far better for that. However, this time we were primarily looking for comfort and beach relaxation, with birdwatching being just a pleasant bonus. Even so, Unguja Island, on whose eastern coast we were to spend 8 days, offered plenty of interesting and exotic birds.

Hotel with a garden by the beach – a great birdwatching spot

We spent our entire stay at the Dongwe Club Vacanze on the southeastern coast of Unguja Island. When choosing the hotel, I was guided by a few things – comfort and high standards, beach access, and surroundings that would allow birdwatching. The choice proved to be a bullseye: the hotel offers its guests accommodation in small bungalows scattered around an enormous and beautifully maintained exotic garden, where I spent hours tracking birds and learning their songs. The immediate surroundings also offered many excellent observation spots. The beach, to which the hotel had direct access along with a very long wooden jetty, provided opportunities to observe many waterbird species. This is because the eastern shore of the island is very susceptible to tidal ebb, during which the sea floor is exposed over a very large area – a perfect spot for waders, herons and terns. The surrounding overgrown scrubland was also full of birds (unfortunately, more litter than birds in many places).

Species seen around the hotel and beach area included: Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Purple-banded Sunbird, African Golden-Weaver, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, African Pied Wagtail, Common Bulbul, Striped Kingfisher, African Pipit, Red-eyed Dove, White-browed Coucal, White-fronted Plover, Black Heron, Water Thick-knee, Greater Sand-Plover, Ring-necked Dove, Lesser Striped Swallow, Lilac-breasted Roller, Broad-billed Roller.

What a wonderful garden – I’ll never forget it. Literally 3 metres from the path that tourists walked along every day, several pairs of African Golden-Weavers had built their intricate nests. On almost every shrub decorated with colourful flowers, sunbirds of five different species were hopping around. The number of moving dots amid the lush vegetation, accompanied by unfamiliar songs and calls, was overwhelming in the first few days. But by around day 3, I had learned to distinguish the sounds and was tuning in to those I hadn’t yet identified. And this was only the beginning…

Another big advantage of this choice was the short distance to Chwaka Bay, where a whole host of species I wanted to see had been recorded on the eBird app. Another location I had planned to visit was Jozani National Park – the only national park on Zanzibar.

Jozani National Park – a VIP birding excursion

The park is famous above all for its endemic monkey – the Kirk’s red colobus (Piliocolobus kirkii).

For a bird lover it is an equally fascinating place – here you can encounter the Fischer’s Turaco, which I so desperately wanted to see. The dense mist forest transitions into mangroves over Chwaka Bay, creating a mosaic of habitats that attracts both forest and wetland species. This is one of those places where, already at dawn, accompanied by hoots and flute-like trills, you can feel that you’re standing at the very centre of an evolutionary island at the crossroads of East Africa’s migration routes. Entry to the park is only possible with a guide, and as it happens, the park has organised a special VIP bird tour option. That’s exactly what we chose, and it was a great decision – our guide Milo was an experienced observer who took us first of all to nearby farmland. There we encountered a whole host of new birds for me, and there was also one very interesting snake lurking in a dense bush.

Species seen at Jozani National Park and surroundings: Common Waxbill, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Crowned Hornbill, Eastern Nicator, Dark-backed Weaver, Green-backed Woodpecker, Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul, African Palm Swift, African Fish Eagle.

Unfortunately, that day was mega hot even early in the morning. The heat was so oppressive that after 3 hours of walking I suffered heat stroke. At first I thought a moment’s rest and extra hydration would sort things out, but I was wrong. Things started getting serious when a terrible headache, dizziness and nausea set in. Despite enormous determination and a desperate wish to see the Fischer’s Turaco, I had to cut the excursion short. That day ended for me around noon, as the effects of overheating and dehydration persisted until nightfall. It was a valuable lesson in humility, which gave me a lot to think about – mainly about the fact that I would have to go back there one day.

Chwaka Bay

A great idea for us was also a bicycle trip to Chwaka Bay. Admittedly, the bikes hired from the hotel were, by European standards, more suited to the scrap heap than tourist hire, but that doesn’t change the fact that accompanied by creaks and rattles they managed to get us from the hotel to the bay and back. At the bay itself I was in for a surprise – I had expected a good number of gulls, terns, waders and kingfishers in the mangrove thickets. Of that whole set, only the waders met my expectations; I didn’t see a single gull, tern or kingfisher there.

The crab-plovers, Black Herons, Grey Herons, Intermediate Egrets and Great Egrets were there in good numbers though. And among the sizeable flocks of Kentish Plovers, one could pick out gems such as White-fronted Plover, Lesser Sand Plover, Desert Plover and Siberian Sand Plover. And on the way back I managed to spot the icing on the cake – a Sooty Falcon resting on a palm tree. I would recommend this spot to any birder.

Stone Town and the spice plantation

We chose to travel to Zanzibar with Itaka – it was our first real trip to Africa (previously we had only been to Fuerteventura, which is geographically part of Africa, but culturally and politically is Europe), so we preferred not to organise everything ourselves. One of the undoubted advantages of travelling with a tour operator is the interesting optional excursions, and we took advantage of this by joining a trip to the spice plantation and Stone Town.

We particularly enjoyed the spice plantation tour – I can finally say that I showed my wife where pepper grows! Literally! Local guides took us around a large garden full of plants that in Poland we know mainly from cookbooks. We had the opportunity to see how local pepper, vanilla, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg and turmeric grow and taste (and that’s still only part of the list). The tour ended with a palm-tree climbing demonstration, shopping and a delicious lunch made from local ingredients.

Then came the time to explore UNESCO-listed Stone Town, and I have to admit it’s an attraction for people with strong nerves who are well prepared for a cultural shock. Information about the slave trade and the conditions in which it took place is just the beginning; then you have to come face-to-face with the overpowering stench of the local market, where meat and fish are sold. And that’s still just a side note to the ubiquitous beggars and souvenir sellers who sometimes even use blackmail to try to sell you something.

From a birding perspective, the day didn’t yield many observations – at the spice plantation I saw the same birds that had been hanging around the hotel, and in the city the only new species to make the list was a Sooty Gull spotted in the harbour.

Practical info – birding trip to Zanzibar and Tanzania

Before you pack your binoculars, sort out the formalities and required documents. The basic document is a passport valid for at least 6 months from the date of departure from Tanzania – this applies to every traveller, including children. You’ll also need a visa; a tourist visa costs around 50 dollars and can be obtained in two ways: online before departure or on arrival at the airport. Since 2024, all visitors to Zanzibar must also purchase travel insurance exclusively from the Zanzibar Insurance Corporation (ZIC) – standard foreign policies are not accepted, and lack of this document can result in being refused entry.

Regarding health: if you’re travelling from Poland, no vaccinations are required, but vaccinations against Hepatitis A and B and typhoid are recommended. Zanzibar is in the endemic zone for malaria, dengue and several other mosquito-borne diseases for which there are no effective vaccines – anti-malaria prophylaxis and a good repellent are an absolute must, especially for anyone planning to be out in the field at dawn and dusk.

As for clothing and equipment worth taking for birdwatching in the tropics, opt for breathable, long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt in muted colours (green, beige, brown), which simultaneously protect against the sun, insects and scratchy vegetation. For optics, 8×42 binoculars are a good compromise between field of view and image brightness in shaded forest; it’s worth securing them in a waterproof case, as humidity fluctuations and tropical dust can damage your optics. Sturdy ankle boots with a waterproof membrane are advisable – paths in the mangroves and forest can be muddy year-round, and solid-soled footwear is also very useful on the rocky sections of the beach.

You can also find advice online to bring a spotting scope, and it’s true that a scope is always handy for birdwatching – but I didn’t bring one and didn’t regret it at all. During the entire trip there was only one moment when I wished I had a scope with me; most observations can be made at distances perfectly suited to binoculars. In my view, a spotting scope plus tripod is a lot of bulk and weight that you can comfortably leave out of your luggage.

Zanzibar birds – observation list from the trip

New species on my life list:

• Common Waxbill
• Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird
• African Fish Eagle
• Common Bulbul
• Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul
• Crab-plover
• Black Heron
• Green-backed Woodpecker
• Lesser Striped Swallow
• African Palm Swift
• Lilac-breasted Roller
• Broad-billed Roller
• White-browed Coucal
• Water Thick-knee
• Striped Kingfisher
• Sooty Gull
• African Pied Wagtail
• Purple-banded Sunbird
• Mouse-coloured Sunbird
• Scarlet-chested Sunbird
• Collared Sunbird
• Eastern Nicator
• White-fronted Plover
• Lesser Sand Plover
• Desert Plover
• Siberian Sand Plover
• Sooty Falcon
• Crowned Hornbill
• Red-eyed Dove
• Ring-necked Dove
• African Pipit
• Emerald-spotted Wood Dove
• Green-headed Sunbird
• Zanzibar Red Bishop (Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird)
• Black-bellied Weaver
• Dark-backed Weaver
• African Golden-Weaver
• Malachite Sunbird

Other species observed:
House Sparrow, Common Sandpiper, Red-backed Shrike, Spotted Flycatcher, African Green Pigeon, Great Egret, Intermediate Egret, Indian House Crow, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Grey Heron, Greater Crested Tern, Eurasian Curlew, Whimbrel, Ruddy Turnstone, Kentish Plover, Eastern Cattle Egret, Little Ringed Plover.

The observation list could have been considerably longer, but we didn’t manage to complete all the programme points I had originally planned. When I was planning the Zanzibar trip I had hoped to also visit Pemba Island, where you can find several endemics – unfortunately, due to inherent laziness and the heat stroke that effectively put me off such adventures, we abandoned that plan.

Zanzibar up close – cultural shock included in the ticket price

Zanzibar is not just a turquoise lagoon from a travel agency brochure – it’s an island where in the course of one walk you can go from a luxury resort through a market full of the scents of cloves and fried fish to the narrow streets of Stone Town, where laundry dries between buildings from the era of the sultanate. Poverty is visible to the naked eye and there’s no point in romanticising it – but equally visible is the dignity with which people live here, and the selfless warmth they show to visitors from a place where everything is richer and easier. On the beaches you’ll inevitably encounter beach boys – local sellers, guides and organisers of everything – who’ll approach you with a smile and an offer of a trip, a massage or a fresh coconut. Some can be persistent, but there’s no aggression; they’re simply people seeking a livelihood in a place where tourism is one of the few available sources of income.

It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that handing out money, sweets or trinkets to children – though it reflexively seems like a kind gesture – in the longer term harms the local community: it entrenches begging, discourages children from attending school and means that every white tourist becomes a walking cash machine. If you want to support the locals, do so consciously – buy something at the market, use the services of a local guide, eat at a small restaurant away from the hotel zone.

Once you’re in Zanzibar, three Swahili phrases will quickly become second nature to you – they’ll come in very handy and will bring a smile to the face of every local you meet:
Jambo – Hello!
Pole pole – Slowly, slowly – their answer to every delay
and the world-famous – Hakuna matata – no problem, everything’s fine

Summary – is it worth going to Zanzibar for the birds?

In short – absolutely yes! Even though searching for birds was not our primary holiday plan this time and we devoted only two of our eight days entirely to birdwatching, I managed to observe 38 new species on my life list. And that’s a result that on a more bird-focused trip to Zanzibar could easily be doubled.

Zanzibar has the rare advantage of working on many levels simultaneously – birdwatching can be combined there without any problem with regular sightseeing and relaxation. Exotic birds are literally everywhere, sometimes within arm’s reach. The Jozani Forest, the mangroves of Chwaka Bay, the open coastlines at low tide, the bush-covered scrubland – each of these places offers a completely different avifauna. So if you’re wondering whether it’s worth combining birdwatching with an all-inclusive holiday, the answer is: absolutely yes, and without any sacrifice for the rest of your group.

We chose an all-inclusive package with Itaka, and that too was a great idea – the first real contact with Africa was somewhat shocking but very exciting. That’s exactly what we needed, and the tour operator took care of all our comforts. If you’re planning birdwatching on Zanzibar as a holiday add-on – I’d strongly recommend this option. I think that after this experience, I’ll have the courage to organise my next African adventure on my own.

• Sri Lanka – an island for birdwatchers
• Sri Lanka trip itinerary
  • Birdwatching on the south coast
  • Kottawa Forest Reserve
  • Udawalawe National Park
  • Owls near Tissamaharama
  • Sinharaja – the inaccessible jungle
  • Sigiriya and Lion Rock
  • West coast relaxation
• Practical tips for a Sri Lanka birdwatching trip
• Sri Lanka birds trip – summary

Sri Lanka – an island for birdwatchers

My wife and I make it a tradition to set aside money each year for a shorter or longer international trip. At the end of 2024, we were planning a birdwatching trip to Oman, but when that fell through, we started looking for an equally attractive alternative. We had saved up a solid budget and wanted something exotic — Asia and Sri Lanka quickly became our top choice. Ceylon seemed to offer everything we look for on our travels: rich culture, warm climate, stunning landscapes, sandy beaches and incredible wildlife.

I started my research and discovered that Sri Lanka was not only within our financial reach, but also offered a remarkable diversity of endemic bird species. I ordered the flights, and shortly after — a field guide to the birds of Ceylon. Then I sat down with eBird and mapped out the island in search of locations that would give us both exceptional birding opportunities and a chance to experience Sri Lanka’s unique culture.

Sri Lanka trip itinerary

Despite not being a large country, Sri Lanka is incredibly diverse. The island is divided into wet and dry zones, which shift depending on the season. Our trip was planned for January, when the best weather is found in the western and southern parts of the island. During my research, I also discovered that the birds I was most hoping to find are highly localised, meaning we would need to travel quite a bit to reach our goals. After much deliberation, we worked out a plan that — while not perfect — gave us the opportunity to visit many remarkable places and encounter a huge variety of exotic birds and wildlife.

• Landing in Colombo
• Southward route with sightseeing along the way
• 5 nights in Rekawa (near the town of Tangalla)
• 1 night in the Sinharaja jungle
• 2 nights in the town of Sigiriya
• 3 nights in a fishing village on the west coast near Chilaw
• Departure from Colombo to Warsaw

The plan was good, but not flawless. When I was booking, it seemed like we would be close to all the key spots. In reality, transport in Sri Lanka takes far longer than expected — even without relying on public transit. As a result, we have plenty of reasons to return one day!

Birdwatching on the south coast – Rekawa

Before reaching our first base on the southern coast, our driver took us to a few interesting spots. At my request, we first stopped at the Bellanvila Attidiya Sanctuary, where we walked along the Nedimala Canal. That first birdwatching session in Sri Lanka was electrifying. Almost every bird was new to me. As it turned out, all but one bird at that location reappeared many times during our trip. The exception was a Yellow Bittern hunting in the reedbeds — spotted only there.

We also had our first encounter with a massive Water Monitor lizard. We would see these reptiles many more times on the trip, but never again so close, and never one so large.

Our first overnight base was perfectly positioned between the sea, the wetlands, and the Rekawa lagoon. The beach in front of our hotel was completely unsuitable for swimming due to powerful waves — but that turned out to be a major advantage. Each January night, female sea turtles ride those waves ashore to lay their eggs. All you need is a torch and a nighttime walk to encounter giant turtles on the beach. We were lucky enough to see one on our second night.

The surroundings of our first hotel turned out to be a birding paradise. The wet meadows and tree-lined areas produced outstanding species: Indian Paradise Flycatcher, Red-wattled Lapwing, Green Bee-eater, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Sri Lanka Junglefowl, Black-headed Ibis, Indian Roller, Crimson-fronted Barbet, Sri Lanka Swallow, and many more. The trip total from this area alone reached well over 50 new species for my life list.

The highlight of my time at Rekawa was spotting a dolphin from the beach — most likely an Indian Ocean Bottlenose Dolphin, according to a local expert. I only managed to photograph its dorsal fin, but the sighting was unforgettable.

Kottawa Forest Reserve and Fort Galle

During our time on the southern coast, we also visited the historic city of Galle and its famous fort. On the way, we stopped at the Kottawa Nature Reserve, where our guide Rohan introduced us to local plant and animal species. Birds were scarce inside the dense forest — we spotted only a few flowerpeckers and a Black-crested Bulbul. However, we found some fascinating reptiles, including the spectacular Lyriocephalus scutatus and Otocryptis wiegmanni.

A word of warning: if you visit Kottawa, prepare for an invasion of land leeches. Unlike European leeches, these crawl on the ground, climb your boots and bite relentlessly. Removing them is quite unpleasant.

Walking through the old fort in Galle also yielded a few excellent sightings: Glossy Swiftlets, Red-vented Bulbuls, Sri Lanka Swallows, a Nepal House Martin, and a small group of resting terns — including Lesser Crested and Black-naped Terns.

Udawalawe National Park – Sri Lanka birds on safari

A safari in Udawalawe National Park is an absolute must for any birdwatcher visiting Ceylon. We set out before dawn, though unfortunately we made a costly mistake by not clearly agreeing on the duration of the jeep hire upfront. After just three hours, our driver left the park despite my protests. Despite being cheated, the morning still delivered an incredible variety of new species, including Indian Peafowl, Gray-headed Fish Eagle, Indian Roller, Indian Courser, Lesser Adjutant, Painted Stork, Greater Flameback, Sri Lanka Junglefowl, and Alexandrine Parakeet.

Beyond the birds, we observed Sri Lankan Elephants, Mugger Crocodiles, Axis Deer, and a Golden Jackal. If you are planning a Sri Lanka birdwatching trip, I strongly recommend dedicating a full day to Udawalawe — and sorting out the jeep terms in advance!

Owls near Tissamaharama – a birding night tour

Before our trip, I found contact details for Sadun, a local birdwatcher based near the town of Tissamaharama. He offered to show us the local owl species — particularly those that can be found roosting during the day: Buffy Fish Owl, Brown Fish Owl, Spot-bellied Eagle Owl, and Indian Scops Owl. After dark, we would also visit a spot known for Barn Owls.

Sadun rode ahead on his scooter, leading our driver through narrow backstreets to locations that no tourist would ever find on their own. We found all four daytime owl species as promised. A lakeside walk afterwards turned up a Ceylon Rufous Babbler — a Ceylon endemic — and a huge colony of Indian Flying Foxes. There were also Mugger Crocodiles, a large roost of Black-crowned Night Herons, a Black Bittern, a Brahminy Kite with a freshly-caught fish, a Black-necked Stork walking through a rice paddy — and just after dusk, two Barn Owls appeared.

Sinharaja – the inaccessible jungle

After the brilliant time on the south coast, we headed towards the Sinharaja jungle. The plan was to arrive early enough for an afternoon walk near our accommodation, then join a guide early the next morning for the national park. Unfortunately, the road to our lodge took around five hours despite covering only a few dozen kilometres — we crawled along narrow, broken mountain tracks. The views were spectacular, but mostly obscured by rain.

Our tiny jungle lodge sat at the edge of the rainforest, and even the downpour could not stop us from spotting a few species from the terrace: Vernal Hanging Parrot (an iconic Sri Lanka bird!), Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Malabar Trogon, Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, and the endemic Yellow-fronted Barbet.

The next morning brought our biggest disappointment of the trip: the rain had only intensified overnight, making a jungle hike unsafe and pointless. We made the difficult decision to skip Sinharaja — meaning the place that was supposed to harbour the most endemic species of Ceylon remains a mystery to me. A very good reason to return.

Sigiriya and Lion Rock – birds at the fortress

We pushed on to Sigiriya in the centre of the island. The weather finally cleared the next morning, giving me a chance for an early walk before my wife woke up. I circled a few rice paddies — where I found only species already on my list — but the forest strip between our guesthouse and the Sigiriya complex turned up several secretive but exciting birds new for my life list.

After breakfast, we headed to Sigiriya Rock itself. The queues at the ticket office were so long that we instead decided to visit the nearby Pidurangala Rock — a lesser-known alternative offering a stunning view of the Lion Rock from above, at a fraction of the price and without the crowds. The view from the top is magnificent: flat jungle stretching to every horizon, and the enormous Sigiriya Rock rising above it all.

The Pidurangala trail also produced great birds, including a Flame-throated Bulbul (a Ceylon endemic), two Sri Lanka Grey Hornbills at the Sigiriya palace ruins, a Brown-capped Babbler, and a Crimson-fronted Barbet. The following morning, near a local lake, I added the Grey-bellied Cuckoo to my list.

West coast relaxation – Chilaw and Anawilundawa

Our final base on Sri Lanka was near the town of Chilaw on the west coast — a beautiful hotel situated between the beach and a large lagoon, run by a charming gentleman who was fascinated by my birdwatching hobby. This was the ideal spot to recharge after an action-packed itinerary.

The nearby Anawilundawa Bird Sanctuary and surrounding rice paddies provided several last-minute additions to my life list: Large Cuckooshrike, Shikra, Black-winged Kite, and Paddyfield Pipit. My total count for the trip reached 104 new species — a result I consider spectacular, and one that would have been even higher had the rain not forced us to miss Sinharaja National Park.

Practical tips for a Sri Lanka birdwatching trip

Organising this trip was the most complex international travel I had ever done independently. Despite a few mistakes, we had a fantastic 10 days in Ceylon. Here are my key practical tips:

• Get a local SIM card immediately upon arrival — data costs in international roaming from a European SIM can be eye-watering. A local SIM is essential for navigation and translation.
• Exchange currency at the airport — we found the best exchange rates at Colombo airport. Bring USD or EUR; PLN won’t be accepted anywhere.
• Hire a car with a driver — self-driving is not cheaper, and Sri Lankan traffic is genuinely dangerous for foreigners. A good driver also acts as a local guide.
• Always confirm travel times — even short routes can take surprisingly long. Plan accordingly.
• Agree all terms in advance — price, duration and scope of any service. Vague agreements will be used against you.
• Watch your belongings around monkeys — both Toque Macaques and Purple-faced Langurs are expert thieves.

• Bring rain gear — Ceylon’s weather changes rapidly and dramatically.
• Use strong sun protection — even on overcast days, the equatorial sun burns fiercely.
• Bring a plug adapter — Sri Lanka uses British-type (Type G) sockets.
• Travel insurance is a must — stray dogs, chaotic traffic, tropical diseases and accidents make comprehensive travel insurance essential.

Sri Lanka birds trip – summary

Ten days in Sri Lanka is undoubtedly too short to track down every interesting species, visit every attraction, or explore every corner of this remarkable island. We skipped a whale-watching trip due to weather, missed three national parks — Yala, Bundala and Wilpattu — and had to abandon our Sinharaja plans due to relentless rain. And yet, despite the imperfections, we came home exhilarated.

104 new birds on my life list. Elephants, crocodiles, sea turtles, giant bats, and monitor lizards. Stunning temples, colourful markets, and incredibly warm people. Ceylon is one of those rare destinations that exceeds all expectations — and leaves you already planning your return.

If you are considering a Sri Lanka trip for birdwatching, stop thinking and start booking. You will not regret it. And if you have any questions about planning your trip, feel free to ask in the comments!

If you enjoy birdwatching in exotic destinations, check out our report from the Fuerteventura – Canary Island birding trip.